An easy to make direct chain release

Cindy123 · Post by **Cindy123** » 28 Oct 2006, 23:53

This is a drawing on how to make a ice timer work on a direct basis, most ice timers only drop the keys to your hands (passive) with this setup when the ice melts it drops a lead weight that pulls the pin out of the bolt letting the spring push the bolt out of the eye hooks and releasing you (direct release).
You can also use this as a fail safe release, put the string where you can reach it, in a pinch pull the string and the cotter key pops out and you are instantly released.
The trick in this setup is the bending of the cotter key to make it snug not tight, I took a very small nail and bent one side around the nail, leaving a small bulge in one side.
Also grease the bolt so it slides easier, I used a 3/8x 6 in bolt, but you can use anything you have around the garage.
I hope the drawing makes it easy to understand.
Cindy

slkdyk · Post by **slkdyk** » 29 Oct 2006, 00:20

I just love these devices that use regular hardware store items and some thought. Nice idea. I sure hope the pin doesnt get stuck.

Cindy123 · Post by **Cindy123** » 29 Oct 2006, 00:48

It works every time make sure you bend the cotter key like the drawing so it pulls out easy but wont fall out by viberation, but I sugest you employ at least two back up release timers.
Cindy

curious_sb · Post by **curious_sb** » 29 Oct 2006, 01:40

Not a bad idea, although like you say, I can see the cotter key getting stuck

Cindy123 · Post by **Cindy123** » 01 Nov 2006, 00:27

I have never had this release fail, if the dropping weight fails to trip the cotter pin then you pull the string yourself. Works every time. But always have at least two backups.
I play my bondage for real using steel, and feel I need at least 3 release setups, and someone to phone me to make sure I am free.
Cindy

curious_sb · Post by **curious_sb** » 01 Nov 2006, 03:07

It is still a brilliant idea. Thanks for taking the time to draw and explain it.

lanispet · Post by **lanispet** » 24 Nov 2006, 19:13

One thing i would be concerned about is choosing the string. Too strong, and it will bind the cotter pin against the eyebolt. Too weak, and it will allow the bolt to turn as you struggle, possibly ending up with the cotter pin horizontal or otherwise too far out of alignment to come loose.
Another small hardware note- i would recommend getting an actual clevis pin that is pre-drilled for a cotter pin or clip- since they're smooth, the won't require as much spring to pop them out of the eyelets as a threaded bolt would.

Have fun,

...dave

sexyashley · Post by **sexyashley** » 16 Mar 2007, 02:03

thanxs cindy! it works really good, sweettt!

Love Ashley
xoxo