Timed selfbondage setup

[SissyDelight]

Hello all, happy new year!

I wanted to share with you my setup for self-bondage, which I have been successfully using multiple times now. The setup is always such that I lock everything apart from my right arm, and then the final part and also the part that needs to be released is my right arm (since I'm right-handed).

The base release method of this technique is an electronic time lock from Amazon. But as electronics can fail, I can't let this lock connect my right hand's wrist cuff to the bed post itself. So there's a twist: instead of the immovable bed post, the lock rather connects my wrist cuff to a rope bound around a 2 liter bottle full of water. In theory, I am free to move my right arm at any time as much as I need to free myself. But as long as the time lock is engaged, doing so would tug on the bottle, which has been prepared to tip over and spill its content if I did that. A scissor snap ("guard") prevents me from accidentially moving my arm too far and tipping the bottle over.

Once the time lock is closed, there are two options:

1. Wait until the lock opens, which allows me to disconnect the rope to my wrist cuff from the one to the bottle, and subsequently reach over with my right hand free of nasty consequences.
2. In case of an emergency (medical or otherwise), I can use my right hand to detach the guard and immediately go ahead to free myself. This will spill the 2 liters of water, but when in danger, that's presumably perfectly fine.

My setup is always that I am using locks on all parts of my bondage, and collect the keys to these locks on a "master key ring". This master key ring is itself padlocked onto the rope on my left side, using a padlock called the "ring lock". The key to this ring lock is naturally named "ring key", and is attached to the right cuff rope as well.

Here is an annotated photography of the whole setup:

And here is a closer look at the right arm's setup:

So in short:
While bound, the "guard" prevents me from accidentally pulling on the bottle rope, causing a mess. Once the "time lock" opens, I unhook the wrist cuff rope from the time lock and thereby the bottle rope. Next, I detach the "guard" from the right collar rope, and reach over to the left collar rope. Here I can use the "ring key" to open the "ring lock", and thereby get access to the "master key ring", which can subsequently open all other locks.

Additional info: in case the "ring lock" would ever jam, I could use my right hand to tug on the collar rope, just enough to unlock my left wrist, too. Once I can use both hands freely, I would be able to pry open the key ring just enough to slide it over the lock shackle and screw it out. This wouldn't be possible using just my left hand, though, so this setup is actually inescapable.

I have spent multiple hours bound with this technique, and it works great. Maybe it suits your needs, too.

Best wishes and play safe!

[Shannon SteelSlave]

Aloha from Bound Anna, Sissy Delight.

[bound_jenny]

Nice setup and welcome aboard.

Jenny.

[Kinbaku]

Welcome to BoundAnna, SissyDelight and thank you for this nice setup. (I have what it takes to try it out ).

Only one thought: how do you ensure that you always maintain the correct distance between the "ring lock" and the left wrist lock if the "ring lock" jams?
If you tighten the collar ropes between the bed posts too much or put the "ring lock" too far away from the left hand cuff, you will no longer be able to reach the padlock on your left hand.

[SissyDelight]

Thank you all for the warm welcome

how do you ensure that you always maintain the correct distance between the "ring lock" and the left wrist lock if the "ring lock" jams?

If you look at the picture of the whole setup, there are two locks on the left hand's wrist cuff (right half of the picture). The one at the bottom connects the D-ring with the collar rope. This one would indeed be hard to reach on a tensioned collar rope. The lock at the top is for the cuff's locking strap though. And if you simply move your left wrist towards the master key ring, the cuff will pivot around the D-ring lock. The diameter of the cuff itself will then suffice to cover almost all of the distance. So after moving your wrist over, the strap's lock and the master key ring should be on top of each other already, and all you need now is maybe a little bit more to align the key and the lock. But that's literally all the give you'll need from the collar ropes.

Another detail worth noting is that I am not tying/spacing those nooses myself. I'm using a rope has them pre-braided at regular distances, and they cannot shift along the rope. I don't know if such rope is available anywhere else in the world, but where I live, the product is called "Isilink" and is manufactured by a German brand. The strechiness of the rope is "known" to me as well. Therefore, as long as you use the same number of nooses between the one where you attach the D-ring and the one that the ring lock attaches to, the distance to cover is guaranteed to be fixed, unalterable through tension or motion beyond a known maximum, and most importantly unchanging between sessions.

And lastly, your right arm is completely free to move during setup phase (right up until the last moment, when you lock the time lock). You can always try and open the wrist cuff's strap lock in a dry run, while the ring lock is already hooked into the master key ring and the intended noose, but still open.

All in all, I am 100% sure I could make it to insert the key into the strap's lock every time I tried.

I hope this answers your question

[Kinbaku]

Another detail worth noting is that I am not tying/spacing those nooses myself. I'm using a rope has them pre-braided at regular distances, and they cannot shift along the rope. I don't know if such rope is available anywhere else in the world, but where I live, the product is called "Isilink" and is manufactured by a German brand. The strechiness of the rope is "known" to me as well. Therefore, as long as you use the same number of nooses between the one where you attach the D-ring and the one that the ring lock attaches to, the distance to cover is guaranteed to be fixed, unalterable through tension or motion beyond a known maximum, and most importantly unchanging between sessions.

I hope this answers your question

This is indeed the answer to my question: I thought that the rope was simply twisted around itself and that meant that it could be different every time.
With that Isilink rope it is just like a chain that the padlock is always inserted into the link at the same distance and is therefore safe.

[xt]

I would imagine that a chain could be used instead of the pre-twisted rope, and then you could use any of the links (at whatever appropriate distance or location) for the same "tying off" of the snap closure, etc.

For an additional, non-messy backup release, one could link two of the timer locks together, and then one of the lines to one of them, and the other to the other. That way, for any single event, the chance of BOTH locks failing to open would likely be low. (And you'd still have the "messy" backup release.)

[Kinbaku]

I would imagine that a chain could be used instead of the pre-twisted rope, and then you could use any of the links (at whatever appropriate distance or location) for the same "tying off" of the snap closure, etc.

For an additional, non-messy backup release, one could link two of the timer locks together, and then one of the lines to one of them, and the other to the other. That way, for any single event, the chance of BOTH locks failing to open would likely be low. (And you'd still have the "messy" backup release.)

That was my idea to do it because I don't have the Isilink rope.
After testing in advance for the correct distances and marking them with small zip ties in the relevant chain links.