With a dynamic rope, the peak forces are probably less than you'd think, especially when the other end of the rope is attached to a person who also becomes a shock absorber.davisev5225 wrote: I personally think sport climbers are insane for using such "low" ratings on their gear. I get that they want lightweight, but I'd rather have safety! Again, self-bondage is hardly "ideal" circumstances; it's best to render things as safe as you can possibly and reasonably make them. Spending a little more on better ropes, industrial hardware, etc. is a good idea. I keep 20+kN self-locking carabiners around for just that reason.
Even climbing above your anchor point and taking a fairly long fall. The actual forces aren't huge.
(Ryan often tests and breaks caribiners and equipment)
https://youtu.be/m8z6adEqaOs
So even a small micro nut is likely to hold a fall. Unless you're daft enough to have 20 foot between the smallest chocks available, if the first one does fail, the second fall is going to be a smaller fall factor so the second point should hold.
The majority of climbing injuries and deaths are due to incorrect use stuff of poor selection, rather than something that's rated failling.
Having a rope un through a sling and burn through it.
Clipping into the wrong piece of rope
Not clipping in.
Rocks moving and releasing the protection.... I've seen the this with someone abseiling.
For how many people climb and mostly without any formal training, the accident rate is quite low. The biggest question is why there's so many accidents and deaths from working at height when H&S and training is everywhere.
Dyneema soft shackles instead of caribiners are where its at, for strong attachments if you want to be supper safe.