DG-Lab experiences

[Kinbaku]

I can't wait to share my new discovery. I first performed it with a strength of 60 and afterwards with a strength of 50 but with AI of max + 20 for 1 time / 2 sec.

It is about the self-adjustable graph if you click twice on the graph in the middle at the bottom.
You then have not only 30 possible settings, but 3 times 30 settings by activating sections 2 and 3 (click on disable, which changes this to enable).

My settings were:
Pulse freq. 10 (under "F") - 40 (under "?") Mode 3
Pulse unit time: 3.0 sec
then a sawtooth of 6 times 5, 25, 50, 75 and 100
Pulse section time: 1.0s (3.0s)

Section 2 enable
Pulse freq. 0 (far left) -50 (center) mode 4
Pulse unit time: 3.0 sec
the left one at 100 and press the "+" 29 times for a descending line
Pulse section time: 0.9s (3.0s)
slider on 25 (below the "o")

Section 3 enable
Pulse freq. mode 1
slider at 0
Pulse unit time: 3.0 sec
the following 30 values:
0, 100, 75, 45,
5, 100, 80, 50,
30, 100, 85, 55,
35, 100, 90, 60,
40, 100, 92, 62,
52, 100, 95, 75,
55, 100, 97, 95,
97,100
Pulse section time: 0.9s (3.0s)
slider on 25 (below the "o")

Pulse section pause time: 0.1s
slider: 5 (under the "s" of "pulse")
Frequency Balance: 30 (under the second "a" of "Balance").

Explanation of the terms
Pulse Frequency: To control the frequency of the pulse, click the gray button on the right to change the frequency
Pulse unit time: Here we adjust the intensity curve of the pulse in this section
Pulse section time: Control how long the pulse lists in this section before entering the next section
Pulse section pause time: Rest time before the pulse enters the next cycle
Frequency Balance: By adjusting the relative strenght of the high frequency and low frequency parts of the wave form,
the high frequency is stronger when the slider is on the left side and
the low frequency is stronger when the slider is on the right side.

Have fun and enjoy with your own settings.
Let us know if you find an interesting setting.

[Gregovic]

Also has anyone 3D printed a “Case” that allows the strap to be feed through but doesn't allow access to the Dials ? If someone has i would love the file so i can have 1 printed

I'm planning to make just that once I get the thing. Still waiting on the mail... I'll keep you posted once I do.

Since I've now got my unit (though little time to play with it) I've started at looking to design a cover to deny access to the dials and lock in the cables. Anybody have any preferences for how the cover should look? Right Now I'm thinking of a basic "sleeve" that the unit slides into "small side first" and a hinged cover that closes over the dials and plugs, which can be padlocked closed. I could also design it as a box that the unit fits into "flat" with a cover over that, but i think it would be bulkier and more difficult to make strong.

[Kinbaku]

Also has anyone 3D printed a “Case” that allows the strap to be feed through but doesn't allow access to the Dials ? If someone has i would love the file so i can have 1 printed

I'm planning to make just that once I get the thing. Still waiting on the mail... I'll keep you posted once I do.

Since I've now got my unit (though little time to play with it) I've started at looking to design a cover to deny access to the dials and lock in the cables. Anybody have any preferences for how the cover should look? Right Now I'm thinking of a basic "sleeve" that the unit slides into "small side first" and a hinged cover that closes over the dials and plugs, which can be padlocked closed. I could also design it as a box that the unit fits into "flat" with a cover over that, but i think it would be bulkier and more difficult to make strong.

Maybe the following:

Casing.jpg (17.93 KiB) Viewed 3619 times

CasingDetail.jpg (19.56 KiB) Viewed 3616 times

The blue casing: box where only the bottom runs through and equipped with 2 holes in which the red U-profile comes in and that is high enough to keep and block the electric cables in the cable openings.

Red U-profile: is inserted in the 2 holes of the flared bottom of the blue box and then in the openings of the DG-Lab that are normally provided for the elastic band to be inserted.

Yellow plate: Has a thickening on the left so that it cannot go further into the red U-profile and is provided with openings on the left and right (A and A) through which the elastic band can now be inserted. Furthermore, a round opening B for a small padlock.

Operation:
- Plug in the cables
- Activate the DG-Lab
- Put the blue box over the DG-lab so that the holes at the bottom correspond with the holes of the DG-lab where the elastic band normally goes
- Slide the red U-profile through these 4 holes
- Insert the yellow plate from left to right through the openings of the red U-profile until the thickening is blocked against the left hole
- Put the lock in opening B.
- Thread the elastic band through the openings AA to attach the DG-lab to your body

This is only a model drawing of the operation, it is of course better to work with rounded corners so that you do not get hurt.

[Gregovic]

I was planning to go for a full "slip cover" basically. Your design would probably work, but I think it would be harder to print and possibly not as strong. I'll play around a bit in Fusion and see what I end up with.

[Gregovic]

First design attempt. Basically it's just: "remove the white top cover, insert DG unit (switched on), with the cables in place, put the white cover in place over the top and lock it in place with a padlock (the other side I intend to close with a captive hinge pin. Just need to figure out how I want to do that, but simply printing a 6mm round dowel and gluing that in will probably work fine

The box should be pretty easy to print in the upright position. Right now it would need a lot of support material to get the bottom printed but I might just print it as a separate part and glue it on, superglue works pretty great on PLA. Still need to put in the slits for the strap, put in some small holes for the indicator lights and rework the lid a bit to offer more protection for the cables. But it's a start, I think.

[Kinbaku]

First design attempt.

I like the 2nd version with the blue shaft through the opening of the white top cover better. That way it becomes a whole piece, a disadvantage of my version.
As you say: provide holes - corresponding to the holes of the DG-lab - for the strap. This prevents the DG-lab from sliding back and forth in the casing. A foam or a sponge glued to the top and bottom can of course limit this.

[Kinbaku]

Predicament.
A contact at the bottom of the scrotum or at the perineum.
Other contact at the top of the penis as close to your abdomen as possible.
Set the DG-lab to "Graintouch" only (or at "Spring" = a little softer).
Lie on your stomach in bed.
Feet slightly spread attached at the foot end (legs slightly stretched).
Set the strength of the DG-lab so that you just feel no pain, only stimulation.
Set the bottom setting of the AI so that after 5 minutes the strength is increased by 5.
Tie your wrists at the top (arms slightly stretched) so that you can just push yourself up on your knees and elbows so that the penis doesn't touch the bed.

After a while you get tired and you have to lie completely on your bed. So you have the choice: either push up and optimal stimulation, or lie down and optimal pain.

For the brave among you: you can still play with the top setting of the AI so that the values keep changing or set random breaks and starts at the timeroptions so that you have to guess when you push yourself back up.

[Kinbaku]

ElectrodePad.jpg (18.48 KiB) Viewed 3430 times

Just following experiment ended after 2 hours:
Connect A with electric pads to the left hip and the right hip
Connect B with electric pads to the center of both soles

Set A:
Breath with strength 60

Set B:
Random order
Strength 10
Artificial intelligence:
Random strength jump: max +10
jump frequency: 1 time / 15sec
Strength increase AUTO: max increase + 10
Increase rate: increas every 45 s

After 1h45 I was starting to masturbate as an extra incentive without stopping after cumming.

[Kinbaku]

Used my Conductive Urethral Bar for the first time yesterday. First disinfect sufficiently with soap and lukewarm water. Then well lubricated with lubricant. Since it is quite thin and smooth, it went in well. Only inserted 11 cm, but also directly connected to the DG-lab and the conductive rubber loop. The only problem was that I had to constantly hold it in with one hand or else it slipped out. A possible solution is to connect a thin thread around the urethral bar to the penis.

[Sergio]

Used my Conductive Urethral Bar for the first time yesterday. First disinfect sufficiently with soap and lukewarm water. Then well lubricated with lubricant. Since it is quite thin and smooth, it went in well. Only inserted 11 cm, but also directly connected to the DG-lab and the conductive rubber loop. The only problem was that I had to constantly hold it in with one hand or else it slipped out. A possible solution is to connect a thin thread around the urethral bar to the penis.

I've had that using a sound as an electrode but having a PA a simply solution was to loop a rubber band (non-conductive) through the PA and the ends around the sound from either side. For those not suitably equipped, some medical tape over the end of the bar and down either side would probably suffice.

[Gregovic]

I did some more experimenting and it does seem like most of the problems I'm having are caused by my phone. The unit always reacts immediately to the buttons, and the buttons on the phone seem to react faster when there's only a "simple" pattern running over more complex or custom ones. Audio is pretty consistently about 13 seconds behind the actual sound.

As the case may be I dropped my phone recently and cracked the screen. Since it's on Android 7 and new screens are unobtaineum, I need a new phone anway... Anybody have any good suggestions? I really can't see the forest through the trees in the current phone market. A lot of it seems "Made in China" which I've cooled on a bit over the years, I'm not a big fan of Samsungs version of Android (and they seem to be either shit or expensive) so, yeah.. No idea what to go for.

[Shannon SteelSlave]

Can anyone help my friend Gregovic, long time member, contributor, mentor, developer with this phone problem? I wish I could help, but my phone uses a rotary mechanism and I am not knowledgeable with the new phones. Everytime I see someone playing on a phone, I think it's a Nintendo Game Boy.

[Kinbaku]

Can anyone help my friend Gregovic, long time member, contributor, mentor, developer with this phone problem? I wish I could help, but my phone uses a rotary mechanism and I am not knowledgeable with the new phones. Everytime I see someone playing on a phone, I think it's a Nintendo Game Boy.

I have send him a PM. Because I found it only in the Dutch language and not very useful for the English speakers.
It is from a Dutch magazine that performs tests on various devices and reports about it with comment.

[KinkInSpace]

I myself have a Xiaomi Mi 9t pro, and I'm very fond of it. One of the few no notch bullcrap phones. It has a popout front camera, and I really love it.

But it depends on your needs of what you want. Another great phone is the Motorola g8 power. It has a hole punch, but the battery life on that thing is enormous. At work, we don't use it much... basically its our authenticator phone, so we use that like 100 times a day, and we do WhatsApp business on it, nothing else... that battery easily lasts for a week, and charges from 25% upto 100% in like 1,5 hours.

If you don't want either, then the One Plus brand is really good too. I've had an LG phone before as well, but don't have experience with their latest models to be able to tell you how great they are compared to others. The Motorola phone is very cheap though and still performs pretty good. And yeah, I really don't like the Samsung brand anymore myself due to them using the equinox processor in european models vs Qualcomm Snapdragon SOC. The Motorola G8 Power has a snapdragon 655, which is the same as my Xiaomi Mi 9T pro has, so I can tell you, its adequate for gaming and the DG-Lab powerbox too.

If you want a newer phone and you don't mind a chinese brand, the Oppo 3 is one I have my eyes on. The only reason I haven't already gone for that one is that it too has a hole punch. The only new phones without a notch or holepunch are... I actually think, nonexistent right now.

[Gregovic]

I myself have a Xiaomi Mi 9t pro, and I'm very fond of it. One of the few no notch bullcrap phones. It has a popout front camera, and I really love it.

But it depends on your needs of what you want. Another great phone is the Motorola g8 power. It has a hole punch, but the battery life on that thing is enormous. At work, we don't use it much... basically its our authenticator phone, so we use that like 100 times a day, and we do WhatsApp business on it, nothing else... that battery easily lasts for a week, and charges from 25% upto 100% in like 1,5 hours.

If you don't want either, then the One Plus brand is really good too. I've had an LG phone before as well, but don't have experience with their latest models to be able to tell you how great they are compared to others. The Motorola phone is very cheap though and still performs pretty good. And yeah, I really don't like the Samsung brand anymore myself due to them using the equinox processor in european models vs Qualcomm Snapdragon SOC. The Motorola G8 Power has a snapdragon 655, which is the same as my Xiaomi Mi 9T pro has, so I can tell you, its adequate for gaming and the DG-Lab powerbox too.

If you want a newer phone and you don't mind a chinese brand, the Oppo 3 is one I have my eyes on. The only reason I haven't already gone for that one is that it too has a hole punch. The only new phones without a notch or holepunch are... I actually think, nonexistent right now.

Thanks for the input. The Xiaomi Mi 10T pro does look pretty good, albeit quite large. I was hoping to buy something not from a Chinese manufacturer, but it seems there's few alternatives. LGs offerings are not that great, I don't like Samsungs Android version, Nokia is also not all that great for the money. OnePlus Nord seems like a decent choice and is currently at the top of the list(and slightly smaller than the Mi10). Also considering the Ulefone Armor 9E, but it's rather a massive unit.

I hear you on the notch and hole punch thingy. I really hate them (I NEVER use the front camera. I'd buy a phone without one if I could) but apparently that's the norm now (Along with massive screens, because apparently now everyone needs a 6,5+ screen when 5 years ago that was considered a tablet...)