Finally did it.

Chastity is perhaps the ultimate in long term selfbondage.
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restricted
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Finally did it.

Post by restricted »

I finally managed to get a chastity cage on. At the moment I'm sitting here and it's nipping at skin in all sorts of places. Is this normal? It's a metal one that the ring opes up. It was a fight to get it on and lock it.

Perhaps I need a bad woman to lock it on me. In the mean time I can frustrate myself by watching bondage films..
We have ways of making you happily suffer. You WILL enjoy yourself. That's an order.
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Shannon SteelSlave
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by Shannon SteelSlave »

restricted wrote: In the mean time I can frustrate myself by watching bondage films..
Browsing here is also a step in the right direction
Bondage is like a foreign film without subtitles. Only through sharing and practice can we hope to understand.
A Jedi uses bondage for knowledge and defense, never for attack.
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bounddosster
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Re: Finally did it.

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restricted wrote:I finally managed to get a chastity cage on. At the moment I'm sitting here and it's nipping at skin in all sorts of places. Is this normal? It's a metal one that the ring opes up. It was a fight to get it on and lock it.

Perhaps I need a bad woman to lock it on me. In the mean time I can frustrate myself by watching bondage films..
You might have one which is two small. I find a good way to ensure good circulation is when the cage is fully fitted and you are flaccid you should just be able to push two fingers into the base ring under your balls. With your fingers in it should be tight. I'm sure others have their own methods of measurement but that one works for me.
That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
KinkInSpace
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by KinkInSpace »

When I put my chastity cage on, there are a few things that can give discomfort. I'll put them in this list so you can see what applies to you. The reason I write this post like this, is because I'm not 100% sure what you mean.

- If the cage has holes in the front besides the peeing hole (usually there are 2 on either side for air etc) and your foreskin wasn't pulled back, the foreskin will try and find its way into these 2 holes on the sides which is uncomfortable to me. So I always ensure that when I put the cage on, I have a little bit of foreskin in the cage such that when I push my member in, it is in completely bare and all the foreskin has been pulled back. After a while it might be that the foreskin somehow finds it way back to the penis. If this happens I wiggle in various ways to pull it back, sometimes using a cotton swap.

- An erection for too long causes discomfort around the base where the largest ring is. I can have an erection just fine without discomfort, but the erection will press skin deep into the base ring. If this happens for 15 minutes, there's not really a problem. But when it is ongoing for too long, it will eventually cause for discomfort. This happens often during a prolonged session, such as estim to the nipples. I have to occasionally move the ring by pulling/pushing the skin of my ballsack and I am good for another 15-20 minutes.

- Hair can get trapped in many ways, and when this happens, the hair pulling feels like a completely different kind of pain or pinching feeling. The feeling of trapped/pulling hair translates to the skin the hair is on and doesn't feel like normal hair pulling. But there are a few things that can happen that will give discomfort. See the + below.
+ Some cages have small metal rods that act like puzzle pieces and slide into the large ring. A hair can get trapped in this area and pull the hair when moving.
+ Hair below the ballsack can get trapped behind the skin and ring. The skin has a tendency to move, but the hair will stay in place, effectively pulling on the hair.
/ as you can see, the hair can give discomfort. I therefor suggest to shave off your pubic hair in order to prevent this kind of discomfort.
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I'm not yet very comfortable expressing my love for kink from my private life. I will therefor hide behind my username KinkInSpace and not allow any connections to who I really am. I'm sure you'll understand.
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by ruru67 »

My notes:

Hinged base rings are evil. They pinch, and seem to be a three handed job to get on. Avoid. I'm not sure of having a piece of rubber tube over the hinge helps; it seems to me the rubber will drag and there's a risk of pinching at the ends of the tube, but I haven't tried. I'm firmly of the opinion that a solid base ring is the way to go, even if it takes a bit of getting used to how to thread all your bits into it.

Don't bother with plastic devices - stick to stainless steel. Plastic devices always have just a little bit of flexibility in the wrong places, often meaning a ball can squeeze out unexpectedly, and the only way to avoid this is often to make the gap between the base ring and the cage too small. And a ball squeezing through that gap hurts. A lot.

The base ring should not be too small. If it is, it'll fold the skin at the base of the scrotum on itself, and that will cause you problems. The key to keeping it on is not the size of the base ring, but the gap between the cage opening and the base ring. Err on the large size with the base ring, and if the gap is too big, you can usually assemble the device, place it on a hard surface with the base ring down, and press down hard (but carefully) on the cage to bend the whole thing so the cage closes a little on the ring to narrow the gap. (Undoing this requires tools, and even then is going to be difficult if your wobbly bits are contained at the time.)

Erections will pull the whole thing out, and the scrotum at the base of the balls is what takes the load. Some kind of belt to hold the whole assembly close to your crotch will help a lot - the erection will be forced inwards (and be contained), and not drag on the balls. The belt doesn't have to be super tight, just tight enough (and sitting on your hips, not your waist) to keep the thing from pushing outwards.

I have a (home made) metal belt that locks into place when the cage is installed - it also has the effect of immobilizing the package enough to largely prevent "casual" masturbation, reducing "accidents". If I hit the thing with a vibrator, it's still going to stimulate to orgasm, but casual rubbing is just frustrating. It also means that while I can "turtle" my penis out of the cage, it doesn't really have anywhere to go - I actually do that to clean it but it's not comfortable to stay like that, so it goes back in.

You want a cage that's slightly shorter than the flaccid penis, so it has nowhere to go to become erect - this is particularly true if you're a "grower". (I am; my cage is actually very small.) If there's too much room, your penis will usually fatten before it lengthens; if there's room for it to lengthen, it'll jam against the sides of the cage, and abrade as it tries to stuff itself through the unused length of the cage. This is Not Fun (and will cause damage). You want the cage filled lengthwise when flaccid to prevent this.

The little 3-pin lock inserts that come with these things are comically easy to pick. I modified mine to use a larger (4-pin) insert. It took a bit of metalwork (both on the lock and the device) to make that work. It won't last long against an experienced lock picker with tools, but I'm happier with it. I'm fussy about locks.

Another modification with a very open, short cage was a metal cover over the top of the tube to prevent the head rubbing or pinching against clothes through the cage bars. That also extends in such a way as to direct urune flow down over the balls - the belt holds the whole package quite high, so overshooting when seated on the toilet was a problem that the cover solves.

Finally maintenance: clean it properly between uses, and oil the lock. (I'd normally recommend graphite powder for lubricating locks, but it's going to get wet, and oil will help exclude water). Clean your privates and the cage properly every couple of days at least (if it's a reasonably open design you should be able to do that while wearing it). Lubricate regularly, after each wash and then when needed - I use "Uberlube" silicone lube and apply it at least twice a day (the silicone repels water which helps keep it working); others report good results with "baby oil gel". You want the lube all through the contacts between the device and skin, especially between the penis and balls.
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by restricted »

Well the one I have is a hinged base ring. I have tried a chain, but that pinched and is not that secure. I thought I'd be able to pull it tight.

There is another with different size extensions for the ring. Maybe I'll get that one.
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by Keyless »

ruru67 wrote: The little 3-pin lock inserts that come with these things are comically easy to pick. I modified mine to use a larger (4-pin) insert. It took a bit of metalwork (both on the lock and the device) to make that work. It won't last long against an experienced lock picker with tools, but I'm happier with it. I'm fussy about locks.
Unless someone knows a different method, cylinder locks are picked by applying a little turning force in the unlock direction whilst picking the pins in the lock with a pick or something like a piece of wire. I agree that the 3 pin "magic lockers" are very easy to pick. Its a little more difficult if it's actually fitted in a chastity device I am wearing, but still very insecure.

One thing that makes the picking much easier is to be able to apply the turning force via the little tab at the end of the lock that secures it in place when locked. On most of the cheaper devices, including mine, the tab is not covered. Hopefully I have made the picking process a lot more difficult by brazing a cover over the gap in the ring that the tab engages with. Now, to pick the lock, I will need two tools in the tiny keyhole. One to twist the cylinder and one to do the picking. Maybe that will make the picking process sufficiently frustrating that I don't even attempt it.
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kinbaku
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by kinbaku »

Keyless wrote:Unless someone knows a different method, cylinder locks are picked by applying a little turning force in the unlock direction whilst picking the pins in the lock with a pick or something like a piece of wire. I agree that the 3 pin "magic lockers" are very easy to pick. Its a little more difficult if it's actually fitted in a chastity device I am wearing, but still very insecure.

One thing that makes the picking much easier is to be able to apply the turning force via the little tab at the end of the lock that secures it in place when locked. On most of the cheaper devices, including mine, the tab is not covered. Hopefully I have made the picking process a lot more difficult by brazing a cover over the gap in the ring that the tab engages with. Now, to pick the lock, I will need two tools in the tiny keyhole. One to twist the cylinder and one to do the picking. Maybe that will make the picking process sufficiently frustrating that I don't even attempt it.
Makes it more difficult in any case, especially when you wear it.
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by ruru67 »

Keyless wrote:Unless someone knows a different method, cylinder locks are picked by applying a little turning force in the unlock direction whilst picking the pins in the lock with a pick or something like a piece of wire. I agree that the 3 pin "magic lockers" are very easy to pick. Its a little more difficult if it's actually fitted in a chastity device I am wearing, but still very insecure.
For small 3-pin locks, just make a "key" from a bent paperclip - fold it on itself, stick it in and wiggle it around (keep a bit of twist force going). Comically easy. Doesn't work so well with more pins - then you start to need separate torquing and picking tools..
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by Keyless »

ruru67 wrote: For small 3-pin locks, just make a "key" from a bent paperclip - fold it on itself, stick it in and wiggle it around (keep a bit of twist force going). Comically easy. Doesn't work so well with more pins - then you start to need separate torquing and picking tools..
Unfortunately that works! The Burg Wachter furniture lock blockers are a bit different from the Chinese ones in that they have a cut away segment in the cylinder opposite the pins.
BW lock.jpg
Apparently this is supposed to make it difficult to apply a turning force and lift the pins at the same time, either with two tools or just one as in the ruru67 method. It might make it more difficult, but it is not entirely successful.

I thought it would be possible to drill out the rings on the device and modify a 4 pin lock to fit quite neatly, Unfortunately that lock proved quite easy to pick as well.

My present thought is to try the Burg Wachter lock but make it much stiffer to turn. I have done this by putting it in the locked position and carefully applying a centre punch to the outer body at the end opposite the keyhole, hitting progressively harder until the lock will still turn with the key, but is quite stiff. At a first attempt that seems to make it much more difficult to pick, even without it in the device and with access to the locking tab to apply the turning force. The cover over the locking tab (see previous post) means I will have to apply the turning force from the keyhole end. Hopefully now it is very difficult to pick. Time will tell. Of course I suppose there is always a chance of destroying the lock completely using this method.
stif lock.jpg
EDIT - Additional information. If the lock is in the locked position when applying the centre punch, it acts as a sort of detent, allowing the barrel some free movement at the locked position. This is not good as it might be enough to allow you to get one or more of the pins to release before the stiffness is encountered. It needs to be stiff from the very start in the locked position. I have now used the centre punch with the lock unlocked. So far I have been unable to pick the lock from the keyhole end, even after making a special tool to apply torque. Since the chastity device is steel and would not be easy to remove without unlocking, breaking the tool in the lock would not be good! I guess the modification might be defeated by applying a lubricant. I tried doing the same mod on a Chinese lock. that did not work so well.
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by Keyless »

The stiff to turn lock has resisted all my picking attempts so far. Lubricant did not make much difference. If anyone has any other ideas about how to make one of these tiny locks stiff to turn without jamming it completely I would be interested. A strong spring holding it in the locked position would be good but there is little space to fit one.
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Re: Finally did it.

Post by bounddosster »

I have never tried to pick my lock, my wife told me if I did and she caught me she would fill the lock with superglue. She has used super glue in the past to get her evil way so I believe she would do it without any hesitation.
That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
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