Easy diy timerlocks?

[Shannon SteelSlave]

You might not want to use the exact one I linked. Stainless is not magnetic

[Gregovic]

The strike plate is a stack of large washers with a countersunk screw through the middle and an eyenut on the other side.

While this works, unfortunately the magnet just isn't strong enough and I can pull the strike plate off with my hands. It could work with some added mechanical advantage . It does prove this method of making a thing like this can work. I might try it with a 50mm magnet at some point. Still not sure about the powerdraw of those though.

I actually have a 50mm magnet in my cart on AliExpress right now, but the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger is that I can’t seem to find a M8x50 washer anywhere. Where did you find yours?

Also wondering if the bottom washer itself needs to be modified to accept the countersunk bolt to make sure everything’s flush at the base, which is super important to maximize the holding force.

Thanks!

The magnet I used on that little test one is only 40mm, and I found an M8x40mm washer that just about fit the head of an M5 countersunk screw. I did have to run a countersink drill on the washer to sink the head a little lower. For 50mm diameter you can probably get m10x50mm fender washers, which should fit an M6 countersunk head quite nicely, or M16 washes which can fit an M8 countersink head

[Gregovic]

You might not want to use the exact one I linked. Stainless is not magnetic

depends on the grade of stainless

The following types of stainless steel are typically magnetic:
Ferritic Stainless Steels such as grades 409, 430 and 439
Martensitic Stainless Steel such as grades 410, 420, 440
Duplex Stainless Steel such as grade 2205

i.e. the most well known grades like 304 and 316 are not magnetic, but many stainless steel products are made from magnetic stainless grades

[Shannon SteelSlave]

Well my shoes are not magnetic, but do conduct electricity.
Stainless is my middle name. I should know more about it.

[bound_jenny]

Stainless is my middle name.

Good to know that you don't rust.

Jenny.

[BlindMike]

The system that I use, is in two parts. the important part is a 12 volt solenoid which I have mounted above my head on the wall, and the second part is a timing device which can be purchased at pretty much any electrical store. The timer has a power socket incorporated into it, and into that I plug a twelve volt wall wart type power supply, which is connected to the solenoid. I set the timer for the desired duration, and then attach the keys to my handcuffs to the solenoid above my head out of reach. The beauty of this system, is in the event of a power failure, the solenoid will release the keys so they drop to where they are reachable. The keys are hung from a length of sting, or similar so they can't fall to the floor and bounce away, they'll just hang at the height I have set the string for. Works every time, and not expensive. In a dire emergency, I can with a bit of a struggle, get to the timer while still bound and turn it manually to switch off the solenoid. This is something you'd need to rehearse first to make sure you can reach it. Otherwise, you're stuck until the keys drops to within reach. Make sure of course that you can manipulate the locks while bound, or blind, preferably both..

[Kinbaku]

The system that I use, is in two parts. the important part is a 12 volt solenoid which I have mounted above my head on the wall, and the second part is a timing device which can be purchased at pretty much any electrical store. The timer has a power socket incorporated into it, and into that I plug a twelve volt wall wart type power supply, which is connected to the solenoid. I set the timer for the desired duration, and then attach the keys to my handcuffs to the solenoid above my head out of reach. The beauty of this system, is in the event of a power failure, the solenoid will release the keys so they drop to where they are reachable. The keys are hung from a length of sting, or similar so they can't fall to the floor and bounce away, they'll just hang at the height I have set the string for. Works every time, and not expensive. In a dire emergency, I can with a bit of a struggle, get to the timer while still bound and turn it manually to switch off the solenoid. This is something you'd need to rehearse first to make sure you can reach it. Otherwise, you're stuck until the keys drops to within reach. Make sure of course that you can manipulate the locks while bound, or blind, preferably both..

Well thought out.
When you want to try something else - further away from the timer. I once bought 3 remote-controlled sockets that I can control with remote control. This increases the possibilities of displacement further away from the coil and the timer.
First put the remote-controlled socket in the socket and then put the timer on it.

[KacieMx]

When you want to try something else - further away from the timer. I once bought 3 remote-controlled sockets

BOL, Belgium? I once visited Belgium about 20 years ago. I went to Lopem to visit some friends. Then, last year, I met a father and son from Lopem while visiting Mallorca. Small world.

[Kinbaku]

BOL, Belgium? I once visited Belgium about 20 years ago. I went to Lopem to visit some friends. Then, last year, I met a father and son from Lopem while visiting Mallorca. Small world.

Yes, it's a small world.
But I bought them in a local store: "Aldi", where they were even cheaper than at bol.com.

[Gregovic]

The strike plate is a stack of large washers with a countersunk screw through the middle and an eyenut on the other side.

While this works, unfortunately the magnet just isn't strong enough and I can pull the strike plate off with my hands. It could work with some added mechanical advantage . It does prove this method of making a thing like this can work. I might try it with a 50mm magnet at some point. Still not sure about the powerdraw of those though.

I actually have a 50mm magnet in my cart on AliExpress right now, but the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger is that I can’t seem to find a M8x50 washer anywhere. Where did you find yours?

Also wondering if the bottom washer itself needs to be modified to accept the countersunk bolt to make sure everything’s flush at the base, which is super important to maximize the holding force.

Thanks!

Small update: I have ordered 3 50*30 magnets (unfortunately in 12V, because all suppliers I could find that even list a 5 or 6 volt have it as a special with a minimum 50pc order size, which is a bit overkill for a test). I already have the washers to make the strike plates, now just need to get the bolts and eye-nuts at some point (should be just a trip to the DIY store). Hopefully I will also finally have my 3D printer up and running by the time they get here for some further experimenting. I plan on making a version with the PVC pipe coupler I described earlier and a version with a 3d printed housing that can be mounted to a chair. I might make a third with integrated battery and timer electronics if I can get it designed and packaged to my satisfaction. Now to wait a few weeks for the stuff to arrive.