Silicone

Ideas and instructions how you can make your own bondage toys.
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Jack
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Silicone

Post by Jack »

http://www.makerealsextoys.com/how.html

"Wet silicone will stick to just about everything and nothing sticks to cured silicone, but more silicone. This silicone cannot be painted--color must be added when mixing. The silicone that works the best is GE Kitchen and Bath Silicone Rubber 1 Clear. This comes in a tube and dispensed with a caulking gun.

VM&P Naphtha, sold at hardware stores, is used to thin silicone and make it possible to add color. The less VM&P you add, the thicker your skin will be, this is best for the 1 coat. The more VM&P you add, the thinner your skin will be, this is best for your final coat."


"When I make skin for my toys, I never measure the amounts of all 3 ingredients. This mixture is very forgiving and easy to do. I will give you an amount to start with, after you make a few batches of skin you'll know why I don't measure the amounts.

First add color. Squeeze color in a dixie cup for about 1 second, about half a teaspoon. Then, add VM&P Naptha thinner, just enough to cover the bottom of the cup, about 1 teaspoon. Use twice as much silicone about 4 squeezes from the caulking gun."


Does anyone have any experience with this? I've carefully examined a tube of GE Kitchen/Bath/Plumbing silicone and the only warning is for the "uncured" product. As well, I've carefully examined VM & P Naphtha and found that it's a thinner that evaporates. I've looked around, but I'm still not sure.

Obviously the silicone won't harden inside of something, and can't be used to fill a mold. But as an outer layering, is this healthy? If you use a condom over whatever you make, is it safe?

And then a better question is, if you use this for any oral play are you in danger there?

IF this is okay to use, this is like a miracle find. A tube of silicone costs about 3 dollars, and a gallon of thinner costs 10. Cheap. Dirt cheap. Which is why I'm very skeptical.
shibmo
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Re: Silicone

Post by shibmo »

couple things i know (from experience).

If you're handling a large amount of silicone, get yourself a gas mask or do it outdoors.
Silicone reacts with water (like the water in the air) and in the curing proces a strong (acetic?) acid is formed. And that stuff is bad for your breathing :P
If you add paint make sure it is water based like acrylic paint.
Adding water(or paint) in the silicone drastically increases the drying rate, but makes the silicone more brittle.
You'll probably wont get al the air out of the mix leaving little air pockets inside the silicone, that's really bad for hygiene....
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webweaver85
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Re: Silicone

Post by webweaver85 »

The information on that site to the best of my knowledge is safe. I have seen that method reproduced many times by different DIYers on forums, blogs, and instructional videos. However like the website says make sure you research all the ingredients you are using, if you ever feel you don't have enough information you can call the company that creates it or search for *chemical* MSDS or material safety data sheet. Since most companies are obligated to keep the MSDS for the chemicals they use in house, obtaining these sheets it normally pretty simple and you don't have to answer to many questions.

One trick I have been wanting to try for this type of thing is the use of liquid latex since It is relatively cheap and you can buy it online. Basically you would make the toy like you are asking about then you paint over it with the liquid latex to give it a protective coat or two. I do believe that liquid latex once cured it safe for oral play, however I do now know how well it holds up to vigorous play.

As to you molding question I have a potential trick there as well; I have included a link for DIY plastic lure molding for fisherman. This stuff can cure in molds for sure, you would just have to make your own mold for the toy you are thinking of. Keep in mind that the greater volume for the toy versus the lure will require a greater curing time and your going to have to experiment to find the required curing times.

I haven't seen either of these tricks mentioned on this site before, not to say they haven't been, so I hope some of the regulars might have some more experience.

Liquid Latex:
http://www.liquidlatex.com/

DIY Lure
http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plastic-lure-molds/
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ponylady
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Re: Silicone

Post by ponylady »

webweaver85 wrote: One trick I have been wanting to try for this type of thing is the use of liquid latex since It is relatively cheap and you can buy it online. Basically you would make the toy like you are asking about then you paint over it with the liquid latex to give it a protective coat or two. I do believe that liquid latex once cured it safe for oral play, however I do now know how well it holds up to vigorous play.

that only holds true for black or transparent latex. the pigments of other latex-colors are known to induce allergic reaction
when worn on the skin. so i would be carefull when using them orally or anally.
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Jack
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Re: Silicone

Post by Jack »

ponylady wrote:the pigments of other latex-colors are known to induce allergic reaction
when worn on the skin. so i would be carefull when using them orally or anally.
Is this for everyone, or just those who are allergic to latex?
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webweaver85
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Re: Silicone

Post by webweaver85 »

Pony has a good point you should definitely test it first, thankfully liquid latex is meant to be painted onto a person so before you coat the toy with it, simply paint a bit on your arm and let it set. If your going to have an allergic reaction to it you will know rather quickly and better to have it happen on your arm.
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ponylady
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Re: Silicone

Post by ponylady »

Jack wrote: Is this for everyone, or just those who are allergic to latex?
while some are allergic to lates, i was referring to the pigments, so this goes for anyone.
make sure the colored latex doesn't contain traces of heavy metals like lead or cadmium.
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mhw
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Re: Silicone

Post by mhw »

1. Actually thread is about 'silicone caulk' which is not the same as 'silicone'.
2. Addition of few drops of glycerin (up to 5 drops per 30ml of silicone caulk) makes it dry much faster(about an hour instead of a day) and causes it also dries inside, not only near surface. Glycerin is available in pharmacy. I've read that acrylic paint works in pretty the same way, but i've never tested it.
3. Core made of a knotted rope works great for some toys.
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