How do you cut the neck hole in stocks?

[invunrible]

You can use a jig saw( or reciprocating) with 2 bits of string tied to a central nail like this.

Nice graphic!
It sounds great in theory, but I seriously doubt that you've actually tried this, especially on a 2" piece of wood.

I didn't really take into count the 2 inches thick. I have done this for speaker boxes, which are like 3/4inch (18mm) thick and it worked perfectly.
Only problem with the thickness is that the saw will get clogged really fast and burn through rather than cut. I have used a jig saw in 2 inch wood to cut the square in the top of my "hidden ceiling hook" http://www.boundanna.com/html/en_tech_ceilinghook.html long as your patient and constantly backoff to let the saw dust out then it should work

[CD Tammy]

I used several sizes of the hole saw with a very standard drill. (The bit pictured is a metal one and I did use wood ones.) It went through the wood like a knife going through butter. I was cutting 2 X 8 lumber. These large hole bits do have a smaller drill bit in the center that helps guide them.

[RADER]

You can use a jig saw( or reciprocating) with 2 bits of string tied to a central nail like this.

Nice graphic!
It sounds great in theory, but I seriously doubt that you've actually tried this, especially on a 2" piece of wood.

You are correct, a Jig Saw and a piece of string might work on real thin plywood;
However, a piece of 2" is a different matter.
dsteve said he also used a band saw, and a drum sander on an electric drill. I might add
I also use a router with a 1/2" round-over bit. Makes for a nice smooth finish.
As I mention above, I take a hand cuff, put it on the wrist of your intended victim; mark the cuff with a pencil, trace the hand cuff on the board, then cut out the hole. makes for a real comfy fit, and no wiggling out of it. Rader

[nitro]

I have used the string method to draw the line. Then using a hand held sabre saw you can follow the line without too much error. Make sure to clamp the work down. A sabre saw with the scroll option helps as you can rotate the blade without turning the entire saw.

scrollingSaw.jpg (21.12 KiB) Viewed 1290 times

If you are looking for a more exact hole you can try to make a jig for the saw like this link suggests http://lumberjocks.com/JohninSD/blog/15513
You will still need to drill a starter hole. Some saw kits come with a circle jig or you could buy the option.

You can also use a RotoZip (tm) rotary cutting tool to cut the circle out. They offer a circle guide "Cuts circles from 3-1/2- to 12-inches in diameter" These tools can take a bit to get used to; they like to wander down the grain and in the direction of rotation if hand held.

RotoZip.jpg (15.24 KiB) Viewed 1290 times

[not_theory]

The quality of the result is equally dependant on the amount of time you spend,
the tools you have access to, and your vision of the correct shape. My goal was
a close comfortable fit for a specific person.

I started by making a set of 1" by 1/16" metal (AL) bands about 6" long. These
can be bent easily by hand and used to determine the correct shape. I wrapped
the neck of my model several times with a 1-1/2" leather strap until I had built
up a 1/4" to 3/8" thickness. This should be loose but against the skin. I had
my model place her forehead on a bureau of nearly the same height I intended
to make the stocks. This made sure I would be copying the neck as it would be.

It helps to put 4 registration marks on the leather. If the front center of the
next is N and the back is S, the marks should be at NE, SE, SW, and NW.
Bend the metal so that it lays against the leather as smoothly as possible.
Each piece should be bent to cover the space between two marks. Mark the
band at both registration points on the collar. When you are done remove
the leather, tape the bands together so the registration marks align, and
test the result. It should circle the neck without touching. Notice whether
the front band is in the same plane as the other bands or droops a little.

<<continued>>

[not_theory]

<<continued>>

The stock I had in mind would have a split set of uprights to maintain the
alignment of the top and bottom boards. I noticed that the front of the
next was slightly more V-shaped than the back. I decided that more of
hold should be in the bottom piece than the top. I laid the top and bottom
boards together on the bench. These needed some planeing before they
fit together well. I choose a standard 2x6 for the top and a 2x8 for the
bottom. The dimensions after planeing were 1-3/8" thick and 5" and 7"
for the top and bottom.

Using the bands, still taped together, trace the inside onto the boards.
I had to remark the side bands in about 3/32" due to the overlap. Also
transcribe the registration marks onto the outside of the traced line as
the inside will go away.

You can use a saber saw, like the one posted above, or a band saw. If you
do not have either, the successful (high quality) result you can get should
provide the needed justification get get one. You may want to build
something else. Stay away from any tool with a large bit as the abillity to
make fine adjustments diminishes with size. If possible use a blade that
is short from the teeth to the back and has only a modest amount of kerf.
I used a sabre saw instead of a band saw for the initial cut because of the
way I placed the hole.

Cut slowly always choosing to err towards the center of the openning and
not towards the wood you want to remain. This took almost 20 min and
I made sure the piece I was cutting was well clamped down. Plenty of light
and time will markedly change the outcome. You should be able to nearly
fit each piece to the hole you made. Try to align the registration marks.
Expect the band to be 1/8" longer because the cut was to the inside.

<<continued>>

[not_theory]

<<continued>>

Now is a good time to check the work against the model. There should be
a position where nothing touches the neck.

Next, sand the inside of the opening. Ignore the edges and concentrate on
the middle 2/3's. The goal is to make this as smooth as possible. Expect to
remove at least 1/16" of material during this step. The best choice is a
bench drum sander because the axis of the sanding drum will remain perpen-
dicular to the work. Try to avoid any sort of sander that allows more sanding
on one edge than the other. If you need to, clamp a drill in a vice or to a table
to control the angle. Also watch that you do not round of the corners of the
hole where the boards join in the middle.

Finishing the hole has two options. Optimally use a router with a 1/2" flush
rounding bit. Be sure to put the boards together as they will end up for this
step. The router will allow you to cut a very nice, comfortable radius all
around the hole. The improved result can form yet another good excuse to
buy yourself a router and contemplate many other projects.

If you do not have a router, an alternative would be to mount a sanding drum
at an angle and use it to sand the edge away. Increase the angle slightly for
each pass. Not having the right tool can be made up for by working slowly and
constantly checking.

A final hand sanding, sealing, and sanding will finish the project.

If you are interested in more details, let me know.


Not T