Corset Q&A (DIY and purchasing)

[Grinser]

Yeah, that's the kind of answer I love in a DIY thread "buying one is so much easier" *sigh* and I doubt that at 35$ that thing is of any decent quality.
And would you please get your capslock button repaired? thank you.

[bound_jenny]

I WAS ABLE TO GET A REAL LACE UP CORSET, BELOW THE BUST TYPE FROM A PLACE CALED LANE BRYANT IN THE U.S. THE COST WAS REASONABLE AT ABOUT $ 35.00 U.S.
IT ONLY TOOK A WEEK TO SHIP, AND IS A LOT EASER THAN MAKING YOUR OWN. THEY HAVE SEVERAL TYPES TO CHOES FROM,AND SIZES
GO UP TO 5X ( ABOUT SIZE 56 ) TRY IT OUT.

Rader, heed Grinser's advice: please get your caps lock key unstuck. One might think you are shouting (not very nice, especially to a respectable lady like me... )

Now, I don't want to rain on your parade, you probably like your garment very much, but that is lingerie, or as some may call it, a "bedroom corset". They are quite nice, but are not suitable for any prolonged wear, and certainly not for tightlacing. They are shaped and measured to just fit on the skin on someone who does not practice waist training like me.

My corsets are alternatives to much more expensive custom-fit models that are expressly designed for waist training. The latter cost around $500 or more, while mine are around 1/10 that. If I wanted a corset for occasional wear, as lingerie, I would buy one.

Take a good look at the pictures of my waist. That is not a natural figure. Try to imagine the pressure required to reshape a rib cage and reduce my waist (by 7 inches) like that. I still have a couple of extra inches to squeeze out.

Now imagine how long one of those bedroom corsets would last on me (about 30 seconds), assuming it would even fit properly on my current figure. The resulting explosion would project little corset shrapnel all over the place.

That's why I make my own corsets, for 1/10 the cost and shrapnel-free.

Jenny.

[ponylady]

Now, I don't want to rain on your parade, you probably like your garment very much, but that is lingerie, or as some may call it, a "bedroom corset". They are quite nice, but are not suitable for any prolonged wear, and certainly not for tightlacing.

as jenny said, this not a real corset.
and for $ 40 these are expensive.

here is rader's model:



if you get lucky you can get a sale on a chinese made one for about 100 €,
but they usually retail for about 150-180 €.

[Charlie tuna]

@ Jenny

Did I miss some post's or have you yet to continue instructions started on your July 13, 2008 post?

I have been asked by a friend of mine to help her make a corset.

Also I noticed in a former post you made note of a "Victorian" verses an "Elizabethen" type of corset. I belive from that post we may be looking for an "Elizanbethen" style. (for support)

Any forther instructions would be helpful.

Thanks.
Charlie Tuna

[Charlie tuna]

The main idea for making a pattern was to use an left over t-shirt and a roll of broad masking tape. Lace you up whith the tape and then cut it apart in as many panels you need. If someone are interested to try I can describe the process deeper.

Are there some tricks to this or is it fairly straight forward as stated in the quote. I have done some sewing so have some idea of what you are saying unless there are some simple tricks that you used.

Thanks

Charlie Tuna

[bound_jenny]

Well, Charlie, you know how it goes... It was back in July, now it's November... Time flies when you're having fun. I'll have to look into making my mathematical pattern method digestible.

An Elizabethan-style corset looks nothing like the classical idea of what most people see as a corset. It's generally cone-shaped, and does not conform to the curves of the wearer, even less enhance them. There is no hip coverage at all - it ends at the waist. And under clothing, it is very obvious.

A Victorian-style corset does not necessarily constrict but can still support. That's the one that has the hourglass or more severe shape I wear. It can conform to the body's curves without compression. I think that is probably better suited to your needs.

The t-shirt and duct-tape method would probably work fine for your case, since it would supply a ready-made, custom pattern for your friend (and give you an opportunity to wrap someone up in tape ). In any case, for this to work, the assistance of a friend is required - it's very hard to apply duct tape properly behind one's back.

Sewing a corset is no different from sewing anything else, save for the type of thread you will use. I use upholstery thread for its strength.

You can get a few more tips from my correction corset construction thread here:

http://forum.boundanna.net/forum/viewto ... 06&start=0

And, of course, you can ask any questions you wish!

Jenny.

[Charlie tuna]

Thanks for your reply Jenny.

Copperlady and myself are researching more about corset making and waiting for your additions.

It will be at least three to four weeks before we will be able to get started with this project as it is hunting season here in Minnesota and that is when I take my vacations.

Thanks once again for the information already provided in this thread.

Charlie Tuna

[Amy_Tenchi]

Do you have any tips for things such as support under the breasts for us blessed girls?

More for comfort than for anything else, but I'm assuming I could even use the zip ties used for boning as a 'wire' or i could buy and bend an average to thick gauged wire.

[bound_jenny]

Interest seems to be rekindling in this, so that will put some motivation into me to keep this thread going.

Amy, the smaller size zip ties might be useful as "underwires". In the case of a corset, it is not necessary as the whole garment serves to support the bust. The bones running down stiffen the corset, and if there is some sort of provision built into the upper part - bulges if you wish - there will be a nice "balcony" for the breasts to rest in.

I think that more pictures are in order. I'll put one of my corsets on my dress form and take proper photos from all useful angles. That way I can highlight the seams and bones to illustrate the structure and the pattern before I get into the mathematical intricacies of my pattern system.

Jenny.

[bound_jenny]

Okay! Picking up where I left off a few months ago, here is the pattern that is the basis for my "master pattern", and also the pattern of the corset that I am wearing at this very moment:



The dotted lines indicate the various vertical reference points, from bottom to top:

Hips, waist bottom (stem bottom), waist top (stem top), under bust, mid bust (nipple, approximately), and over bust.

I had to add that last one because of the push-up effect. I want cleavage, not spillage.

The four panels seen here constitute one half of the corset, from left (front) to right (back):

Busk, Front Taper, Rear Taper, Lacing Panel.

The measurements shown (in inches) are the original measurements for the corset; since then (about a year ago), the corset has been altered (meaning tightened). The missing measurement under the "FT" is 4.33.

Note how the edges of the panels have been matched up so they can be sewn together easily. That's the tricky part. It's very easy (once you have the right math) to calculate the measurements of each panel, but then the curves of the edges must match the adjacent panels. That's where drawing the pattern on the computer comes in. A vector-drawing software like Corel Draw is very useful here. The idea is to maintain the measurements while rearranging them to fit. It would be very difficult to explain.

Also a note that the bottom edge needs to be indented too, to the sides, or sitting will be exceedingly difficult. The 3D views show that indentation.

Here's a 3D look at the front, from slightly off to the side:



With the panels separated to illustrate how they are assembled (the bone I popped is from the second panel from left in the illustration):



Now a rear view, from slightly off to the side:



And with the panels separated:



For those of you who are visually inspired, this should get your little gray cells off and running.

Next up, I hope to get into the nitty-gritty of the math behind those measurements.

Jenny.

[cdinbonds]

For those of you who are visually inspired, this should get your little gray cells off and running.

Next up, I hope to get into the nitty-gritty of the math behind those measurements.

Jenny.

Got that right, Mistress!

Can't wait to see the math behind this. Maybe I can make a "virtual Jenny"

[RADER]

Can't wait to see the math behind this.

I beleive I had it easer building radius stairs than constructing one of
these garments Rader

[bound_jenny]

Before I go any further, here's an amended and corrected pattern schematic for the corset:



I added the dotted line for the hip indent. It's just to show what I meant in the previous post. What I usually do is cut them square as in the original pattern, sew the corset together, and then after a test fitting I trace the curve I want and cut that out before closing up the bottom.

I also curved the top edge and added the missing measurement.

I had a little inspiration during the night and decided to skip the complicated math that led me here and go for a simpler route - use the pattern here as a starting point, and calculate the changes needed instead of a whole new corset.

The waist is easy, since it is symmetrical. The total girth here is 24 inches. So if your waist is currently say, 28 inches and you want your first training corset, this is just about perfect. Now I want to make a 21 inch waist.

Twenty-one inches is three inches less than the current pattern. One might think that one divides that by the eight panels - wrong! The busk and lacing panels each count as one (because one side is flat), so in reality, it's six panels. Three divided by six is 1/2 inch removed per panel, or about 1/4 inch per panel edge. Note that this girth must be removed evenly and symmetrically in order to maintain the alignment of the curves of each panel edge.

To get a larger size, add to the measurements in the same manner.

The same principle applies to the other measurements, hip, chest, etc.

So now instead of a horrid math course, it's down to a simple addition or subtraction.

Jenny.

PS, if any of you has the "Watch this topic for replies" option turned on, please turn it off. That's what's causing the "emailer" errors when posting. Thank you!

[Charlie tuna]

Where do I find these hooks or fast openers, and what is their proper name?

[img=http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6530/stripe11zb4.th.jpg]

Thanks for your help.

[bound_jenny]

That's the busk (in two parts that hook together) and the hooking parts can be called "hooks and loops" or "studs and loops". In any case, a busk always comes with these fasteners.

You can get busks at any corset supply shop - such as http://www.farthingalesla.com/corset_supplies.html or other such shops. Type "corset supplies" in your favorite search engine and it will turn up loads of links.

Jenny.