www.BoundAnna.com

I told me girlfriend that I was into bondage and pantyhose. Actually, I'm into full on crossdressing when aroused but that is for a later date. She agreed to give it a whirl. I took an old dog kennel that I had and made it more secure by using locks to back up every possible weak point. We engaged in an evening of bondage that was fantastic. She started off slow but really got into it. Come midnight, she decided that it was time to put me in the cage. No pics were taken then, I shot these the next morning to demonstrate. I was wearing tights and no show socks. I guess the socks were to protect the hose, not sure what her reasoning was.

From the time she had taken control, I was either handcuffed, zip tied, or otherwise restrained. The cage was no different. The lights were not on like they are in the picture but I could clearly see a digital clock through the hood. After she had me secured she went to bed and promptly fell asleep. I can sleep anywhere. Well anywhere except a 36" x 23" x 25" dog kennel. While she slept like a baby, about every five to ten minutes I would have to move to a new position. Not something that is easily done when you are handcuffed and in a space that is too small. Add to it the fact that the temperature was 50º in the house. It was a very long four hours before the morning alarm went off and she let me out. I did not sleep, at all.



Now, you see the issue. I needed to find and/or build a slightly larger slave cage to be used for this. I purchased a new slightly larger, and sturdier dog kennel. It's a Bully Crate 42" x 34" x 28". I am replacing the door hardware with padlock hasps and replacing the floor with MDF. The metal floor that came with it makes noise when from buckling and bending. Plus it is thin aluminum. 3/4" MDF will be far more secure. I am thinking about making the top a leather covered piece of MDF. It could become a punishment table.

If you are going to use that many padlocks, you might as well use preformed sheets of builder's wire mesh, then you can cut it to the size you want.
Concrete reinforcement is good, and looks industrial, but the hole size is 20cm, so you need to make your own base. With this large mesh size, it is easy to stick an arm or leg out of the cage to stretch out, though cuff and ankle chains minimise that.
You will also need a meaty tool to cut and bend it.
You could build an MDF base with slots round the edge to take the bars. The sides go below the base and the front and back above the base, then the tension in the padlocks would lock the whole thing.
https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel-r ... 6mm/p10830
Stainless wire mesh is more expensive, but tooks the part, and the smaller mesh size means you can use it on all 6 sides if you wish.
The individual bars can be bent with more standard domestic tools, but will stand up to your average pet
https://www.metals4u.co.uk/stainless-st ... wg)/p13492
Both designs should easily pack flat when not in use, but only need a few padlocks to secure.

One of my fantasies. There are very strong cages for big powerful dogs. Instead of locks you can use heavy zip tabs every few inches. Once you get the correctly sized cage and she develops a scenario for your bondage, wear a gel filled overnight diaper while she is sleeping or out working. The gel sucks up the urine and you still feel it. Not uncomfortable but a reminder that you are helpless.

In the original post the last two pictures are of the new cage that I purchased. It is pretty solid. It doesn't need zip ties or locks. The original cage, I used the padlocks to really make it hopeless to try an escape from. The original one was also so small that it was tight to turn especially with handcuffs on.

There was no diaper. She just told me that if I wet myself she'd leave me in there in my urine. I did have to pee by morning but I held it.

I am thinking about adding a magnetic lock to the cage to use it for self-bondage. I can drill a hole in the tubing to run the wire eliminating the ability to cut the power.

Or use another type of magnetic lock: permanent magnet (fail unsafe!) electric activated.
Compulsory secondary release (padlock/yale/...)

Have fun, ... in a cell
f4

The easiest way (and the way I do it) is the following:

Bring a K-Safe with you inside the cage. Inside you place the key(s) for the padlock(s) that open the door. You lock the K-Safe for the amount of time you want to be locked, and then you close the cage.

Make sure you have spare batteries with you in the cage in case yours die.

I use the K-Safe method too in a larger cage. Love it.

The feeling of anticipation once all the locks are secured and the keys dropped in the K-safe...the timer set and then the K-safe whirrs and locks itself. Mmmmm.