Timelock safe and Cybermistress

[Dane]

Hi.

After reading this topic:

http://forum.boundanna.net/board/viewto ... =12&t=3283

I just wanted to give some instruktions to adjust it using a normal outlet-timer and mention what I use for release in selfbondage.

Timelock safe.

I have adjusted a couple of safes like this:

http://www.harald-nyborg.dk/merinfo.asp ... =3674&n=10

using

http://www.harald-nyborg.dk/merinfo.asp ... =5958&n=10

and

http://www.harald-nyborg.dk/merinfo.asp ... =5161&n=10

Open the box, remove batteries, cut all wires and remove the printboard, disabling the use of a code.

Cut the wire on the AC/DC adaptor and connect the 2 wires to the wires from the electromagnet.

Fit a power extension cord inside the safe and connect the timer and the adapter. Now you can programme at which times the safe can be opened.

Hide the backup keys somewhere. Mine are hidden 10 miles from home, 2,5 miles from nearest public transportation, so if I want access on not scheduled times, it requires an hour long busride and a 1,5 hours long walk.

I use them to store keys to chastitybelt, food, money etc. I kind of need to lose some weight, so I have programmed Cybermistress to tell me what to eat each day on a random basis. Depending on the mood "she" is in, sometimes delicious food, sometimes disgusting but most of the time just "boring" healthy food

My safes open in the morning, to take out food and/or money for shopping, leaving me no possibility to come home from work wanting a snack, candy or soda water etc...



I also use Cybermistress in my selfbondage scenarios. I tie myself down on the floor on a board I have made, "she" decides how long and what painful devices to attach. I use a pitchblack room and combinationlocks. I have programmed cybermistress to turn the light off and on using:

http://www.harald-nyborg.dk/merinfo.asp ... =8578&n=10

I don't know what they are called in english, but are normally used for turning off other devices when you turn off tv or pc, in order to save stand by energy. I hook up my monitor as the master and a lamp as slave. Using nircmd commands in batch files, cybermistress turns on and off the monitor and at the same time the light in the room. It is a huge turn on for me, not knowing how long each section of the scenario is going to last.

Just ask if anyone find something interesting and wants something explained more.


AND AS ALWAYS, remember backup/emergency exit. I have changed computer BIOS to automatically turn on computer after power failure. Besides that, the combinationlocks works as a backup. You can always find the right combination going through them all, with a 4 digit it could take a couple of hours. And as emergency release, I use a bucket with some disgusting liquid to ruin carpet/some furniture if I really need out.

Have fun out there

[Dark_Lizerd]

Creative use of CyberMistress... I didn't know those options were available/possible...
At least not when I checked it out 2 or 3 years ago...

But, if I understand the set-up correctly on you safe...
What's to stop you from unplugging the AC power, which will kill the electromagnet???
Unless, by default, the safe locks, and the electromagnet releases the lock...
(Yea, I bet that's the case or the safe could be opened but unplugging the power...)


Nice work there...

[Dane]

Yes Dark, I actually thought the same at first. But the electromagnet opens the safe with power on, and locks it with power off.

It is not actually options in cybermistress, but a utility downloadable from nirsoft, that is executable from cybermistress (like many other programmes is).

For example, if you download the nircmd utility from nirsoft, and types this in the windows command line

nircmd monitor off

your monitor goes to sleep. And the opposite with nircmd monitor on

I have created 2 batch files in notepad which Cybermistress can run in routines through the launch command.

Just to show, if you make a routine in cybermistress consisting of this:

Code: Select all

[General]
start=test1
end=testend
autofixed=1

[test1]
delay=10
launch="c:\monoff.bat"
next=test2

[test2]
delay=random
mindelay=1800
maxdelay=3600
next=test3

[test3]
delay=10
launch="c:\monon.bat"
next=testend

[testend]

your monitor goes to sleep for a random time between 1800 seconds and 3600 seconds. (unless you wake it with mouse or keyboard so keep hands tied off away from computer)

And connecting monitor and lights to the energysaving unit will kill lights as well.

[Dark_Lizerd]

Ah, yes... batch programming... I remember those days... '90s or so...
But, your example is just a little more than I did... Mine were mainly menus..
but, if I understand this correctly...
------
[test1]
delay=10
launch="c:\monoff.bat"
next=test2

[test2]
delay=random
mindelay=1800
maxdelay=3600
next=test3
---------
Without [test2] as a seperat block, the program would just continue to [test3] and not delay...
[test2] is a basicly a timer loop to stop the script for a random time....

[Dane]

You are right Dark, test2 is a timer loop. This is just a very simple one producing a dark period of between half an hour and 1 hour (cybermistress counts in seconds). You can also decide for yourself how long without randomness. I use more complicated formulas, not total random with most outcomes towards the lower middle, but with possibility for very short or very long periods. Also including the mood of cybermistress, if "she" is in a bad mood, some extra time is added.

[Ray09]

Hey Dane,

I just want to start out by saying thanks for making this small guide on how to make your own time lock safe. I’ve been looking for ages for an affordable one and just gave up and decided to put one together myself. Your instructions are pretty straight forward but just to be on the safe side, me being mostly ignorant on this subject, could you or anyone else tell me if the following items are okay to use. If they’re not or even if they are, could you tell me ones that are compatible or ones that you would recommend?


Adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-Compact- ... d_sim_ol_4

Timer:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-31200-Tim ... roduct_top

Safe:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Anywhere-Di ... 184&sr=8-1

[nitro]

Hi,
I cannot see much for technical details for the safe but it does have some good reviews. Seems OK at first read.
The key appears to be a backup entry on this safe. (Some safes have a key as a secondary lock. ie, you need the key AND the combo)

The wall wart seems to be similar to the one Dane has in his post. The 1.5A rating is similar (watch the 10 Watt rating, gives about 1.1A at 9V)
Remember to set the voltage control to match the voltage of the batteries used in the safe (eg. 2 x AA = 3V, 4xAA = 6V)

The timer is nice. The outlet on the side might be tight fro the transformer when plugged into the wall but on an extension cord should be fine.
I especially like the feature

Includes battery backup which maintains settings during power failures

Enjoy

[Dane]

Hi Ray, glad you like my project.

Without knowing the exact specs I cant for sure say it works, I dont know if the differences between the your 110 volts and my 220 volts would do anything. But, as far as I can see it should work perfectly, allthough you should be able to find something a little cheaper, I cant imagine things not being much more expensive here in Denmark than in the US

The safe, looking at the pictures, actually seems to be the exact same as mine so I guess the electronics inside are the same as well.


Just ask if you have any other questions.


@nitro

If it the same safe as mine, the key is a backup, it works either with key or combination (or in my situation when power turns on).

He dosn't necessarily need the same voltage as with batteries, the batteries also run the electric cirquit for the combination, which I have disabled and removed in my version. In mine, the power only runs the magnetic lock. I have modified 3 safes, 2 runs with 3 volts, the lasts needs 4,5 volts. I always run with the lowest voltage necessary.

[Ray09]

Thanks nitro and Dane for the helpful answers.

I’ll probably buy them this weekend. Once I get the items, I’ll post the specs online and whether it worked or not.

If anyone else wants to chime in with some helpful advice or warnings, please do.

Also as a future reference to anyone else who decides to do the same, I decided to buy the following adapter instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Line-0900-7 ... pd_cp_MI_1

And finally, does the polarity or whatever it is matter? Does it matter which adapter wires are connected to which electromagnetic wires? Thanks again.

[Dane]

I actually don't remember if if I had any problems with polarity, and I am not much into electrics. If it doesn't work at first, try switching polarity. If it still doesn't work try switching the wires around.

Try with 4,5 volts at first, and if it works then try with 3 volts, and keep it there if it works. The ones I have that runs on 3 volts makes a buzzing noise if running at 4,5 volts, I don't know if you can damage the magnet or something if running on too high voltage, so I go for the lowest voltage possible.

At first I tried to keep the combination locking, just connecting the adapter to the cirquitboard instead of batteries, making it possible to open through combination but only at selected time intervals. But ended up frying the cirquitboard possibly through too high voltage, and smelled some burned rubber or plastic Only after that, thinking of just connecting direct to the electromagnetic lock, making it all much easier.

[nitro]

Normally with a solenoid coil the polarity would not matter. Given this was designed to be driven by a solid state switch (the keypad circuit) there may be a diode in the circuit either on the circuit board or attached to the solenoid. The diode would be there to discharge the back EMF from the coil when it is de-energized (to protect the control circuit). If there is a diode on the coil it will act as a short to your voltage source if you hook it up in reverse. If there is a diode on the circuit board it will not matter as you are removing that part of the device.

Reference for those interested:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

[Ray09]

Sorry for the long delay. It’s been kind of hectic here.

An update for those who are interested, I haven’t bought the items yet. I’ll definitely buy them by the end of the month and post the results. Thanks again everyone for the helpful advice.

P.S.-
I’m definitely not trying to complicate my life more than I have to, so I’ll just connect the wires directly to the solenoid, seeing as it fits my needs just the same.