MAKEUP BASICS- a 4 part tutorial

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CristyCream
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MAKEUP BASICS- a 4 part tutorial

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Hello,

I wanted to try and do something that would help my CD friends with dressing up.

We have a lot of threads on clothes, so I don’t think I can add to that, but after some searching I could not see anything that talked about makeup.

Makeup is and essential for going out and well a ton of fun for the bedroom, so I thought I could share some of my knowledge.

So lets get started!!

This first post will cover Base / Foundation only:

Foundation is the most critical layer of makeup. Nothing works if this does not work first. You can do the most dreamy eyes ever, but if your appearance is splotchy, your not as convincing. The more time you spend here the better you will look latter.

To start. Shave your face. You should try and shave as close as possible without nicking your skin. Use a new blade and work slowly and patiently. Most guys do this daily, so you know how to get as close as possible. If you normally use an electric – use the electric first and then follow with the razor. If you have hair on the back of your nick make sure you get that too. Work the razor in both directions but don’t nick yourself. Again take time an extra minute here and it will save you 10 minutes later. Oh and remember to trim the nose hair!!!!!!!!!

Next Clean you face. Soap is fine, a skin toner followed and makeup facial cleanse is best. Give it some time before applying the tonner after shaving. The tonner will irritate a freshly shaven face. Wait 10 mins or so and you should be ok. Toner and facial cleanser can be bought at any chemist / drug store or department store. Men, although not frequently, do buy these products so don’t feel weird. Your goal is clean fresh, dry skin.

With you face clean its now time for foundation. This is a 2 part process (most real girls erroneously only do 1 of the steps)

Step 1.

If after shaving you still have healthy 5:00 shadow you will wan to use something called Dermablend. This is corrective cosmetic. You can cover anything with this stuff – see the website for examples.

http://www.dermablend.com/

Select the Cover Cream Foundation. This is the stuff they a known for. With my completion I use Chroma 1 (I have had laser hair removal on my face, but I have always used this so I stick with it). It is important to select a shade 1 shade lighter than you need – more on why you do this later.

If you really don’t have any discolorations or a beard to deal with you should try:
M.A.C. Face and Body Foundation
NARS Balanced Foundation
Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish – OK I am EA trained so you will see me recommending a lot of EA products

Tips on matching your skin. Foundation colors generally fall into 2 groups. Yellow under tones or Red under tones. Look at your face. Are you yellow or Red? Once you have this answered this it will be easier to match shade. Now here the economy has helped us. Most companies have reduced the number of colors they sell so you really don’t have as many options as you would expect. Get as close as you can to your color you will in most cases not get a perfect match

How to apply:
Spread it everywhere!!!
Don’t be shy you can use your fingers. Actually with Dermablend you will be using your fingers very quickly. My other recommendations are more liquid and require either a make up sponge or better a brush

You will find make up sponges ant any chemist / drug store. This is an example http://essentialsbyleah.com/store/produ ... ucts_id/76

For best results with a liquid you should actually use a brush, A ¾ wide artist brush (yes a paint brush) works if you are on a budget or you can find foundation brushes on-line

Yes spread it everywhere on neck and face. Your goal is to cover as evenly as possible. Put a little more on the beard area and less on area that don’t need it (like eye lids). Get close to the eye, but not in it - an 1/8 inch boarder is fine. Again blend, blend, blend – work in all directions. You will quickly develop a skill depending on the type of makeup you are using. As you get to wear your neck meets your chest you are going to begin blending (this means use less and spread it about more). The secret to good makeup is blending which is nothing more that spreading it thinner. Again use your fingers.

Goals
Even coverage, not thick. Cover but again with dermablend a little goes along way. It is ok if you don’t hide every whisker. Get it even and everywhere. Blend, blend, blend. Then lower neck into the chest, here you are only looking to get a little tint. You are only ½ way there.


Step 2.

Foundation is a 2 part process – now were are going on step 2. Liquid make up is that a liquid. It will come off in a second if you don’t set it. Think of epoxy - it does not work unless you use both parts. Same applies here. To set your foundation you are going to use a powder.

Now you can use almost any face powder to set. All of my recommendations have a complimenting powder as part of their line so matching is a good idea.

Now that being said, I recommend my fav Elizabeth Arden Duel Perfection Makeup. This compact is a dry powder, but it can be wet to turn it into a liquid make up. You are going to use it dry.

To select the right color. Follow the Red yellow rule from above and then go 1 shade darker than your complexion (remember in step one you were one shade lighter)

OK why the shade differences. Your skin has several different tones – once blended & brushed the combination of light and dark will give that tonal difference impression.

How to apply. The EA product comes with a sponge. Simply rub the sponge in the powder and then tap the powder onto your face. Always tap do not rub. Tap, Tap, Tap. If your using a loose powder it will also come with an applicator of some type. You can use that applicator, however a better choice is a powder brush.

A powder brush is the biggest of all the cosmetic brushes and bigger is better. Simply tap the brush into the powder and then tap the powder onto your face. Although you can use too much powder it is kind of hard. You will want to cover everywhere you put foundation and then a bit more in the surrounding area. Remember it’s hard to used too much.

Ok how can you not over use the powder? Simple now your going to remove the excess. Take your powder brush and brush the area’s you covered with makeup and powder. Don’t push too hard. A gentle back and forth will do fine. Brush up, down and right and left. This will gently work the powder into the top layer of the foundation and set the foundation. Foundation can also be thought of as the glue that holds the face powder in place. If you remove too much add a little more foundation and then a bit more powder and try again. Your goal is a covered flat (not glossy) look. If you got nervous and began perspiring, slow down and relax. When your calm start again.

This will take practice, you will not get it right first time, but you will learn and you will discover your tricks. For CD’s foundation is the key. If you get it right here, everything else will look that much better later.

Post any questions and I will try and help.

Next post eye basics


Hope this helps
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MAKEUP BASICS - Part 2 - Eye's

Post by CristyCream »

Doing your eyes. This is a continuation on my original make up post

OK eyes are a ton of fun but for the beginner they can be stressful. You want instant results like the girls in the magazines but cant seem to get everything to go right.

OK lets start with the basics:

Eye liner: Start with a good quality eye liner pencil. Yes you will see gels, liquid etc. use a pencil to start you can get fancy later.

I like the Elizabeth Arden pencils but you can always find something a little less pricy. Remember these pencils last forever so paying a couple of extra bucks is kind of a good investment. The nicer ones go on easier and you will really notice a difference. Now eyeliner is supposed to go on last but for the novice do it first and then again at the end. I still do mine this way and I have been doing this for 20 years and am a makeup artist. You are not going to sharpen the pencil to a tip a nice rounded surface is best. Oh and buy black you will more than likely never use anything else

To apply get up close to the mirror and stabilize your fore arms against the glass. Lets start with you lower eye lid. With the side point of a the pencil, starting form the outside of the eye working in towards your nose you are going to draw a line just above you bottom lash line – this is called the water line. The line should be about a 1/16 inch thick. You don’t want to color right up to your eye ball but a bit off is good. Now this is the starter secret don’t try to cover in one coat. You can always go back and add a little more. More than likely your first attempt will be a bit blotchy don’t worry go back and fill in the parts that are a bit light on a second or third pass. This is kind of where a good pencil pays off. It will color nice where a cheap one will tend to be more blotchy. Still blotchy – no problem. Notice the pencil has a nice rounded cap. Using the cap on the end of the pencil retrace your line this will smooth out the line

One of the videos I have posted the girl colors the entire water line – I don’t like this – if you do color the entire line and your eyes become irritated, you can take a q-tip remove a bunch of the cotton from one end by puling. Trace the water line with your skinny q-tip and you should be fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f25TUqgMrQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_bJQdOd1hc

Oh by the way youtube is a great source for how too’s on makeup. Spend some time just like foundation and you will accomplished in no time.

Eye shadow: Eye shadow basically comes in two flavors, powder or cream (I call it paste). I never use paste because it saturates and unless you are trying for the Dee Snider (lead singer of the band Twisted Sister) or Tammy Fay look. I don’t think your going to like it. So lest play with powders.

The cheap brands you will find at the drug store, more expensive at the department store and then the most pricy at the specialty store as you would expect. No real differences except the more pricy will color faster than the cheaper brands. The top brands are:

MAC
NARS
Bare Essentials

I like NARS and Elizabeth Arden.

No you will be tempted as a novice to buy these all in one kits that have tons of colors for cheap $$. Don’t do it these kits are filled with what does not sell. The do have a purpose for accent color but nothing you are going to need to start out with. Oh if you get a really good deal OK but don’t expect to use it much.

Now what colors should you buy?

Earth tones, gold’s, browns and a black or really dark blue. A light blue is also nice and I would recommend it. Now look at those cheap kits OH notice they don’t have any of these colors.

Colors from “NARS”
Ashes To Ashes
Cairo
Cyprus
Night Breed
Night Flight

Colors from “Makeup for ever”
Light Blue 118

Now I am a makeup artist in my main kit I have colors just like these plus a couple of purples, a red a green and 2 other shades of blue, silver, grey and a burgundy. That is basically all I take with me. The funny part is these are the same colors I have kept for 20 years. You don’t have to get the entire list but a couple of browns and a gold will get you going.

Before we get started lets talk about applicators. Most of the drugstore and department store names will come with applicators for applying the color. The specialty store cosmetics and the higher end do not. Why because the applicators are junk. Just throw them away and save yourself.
Like a mechanic you must have the appropriate tools. I am sure anyone who has worked a project without the correct tools will tell you it takes you longer and does not come out as well. So what you need is a makeup brush set. These can go from cheap to over priced in the blink of an eyelash extension so watch out. Any kit should include the following:

blush brush
powder/complexion brush
eyeshadow blending brush
eyeshadow detail brush
eyeshadow detail brush – fine tip
Foundation brush,
retractable lip brush.

Now personally I have a brush fetish and have probably well over $500 in brushes in my case. Shop around a see what you can find. This site I really recommend since they make excellent brushes and are not over priced

http://beautyusa.royalbrush.com/#

So what kind of eyes are we going to do Easy Smokey Eyes. This is a classic design and is actually one of the most easy looks to do.

OK hear youtube again is a big help, however a lot of folks put more into smokey eyes than they need too.

Here are the basic steps.

First we are going to be layering hear to give you a feel for it. Just like spray paint don’t try and cover in one coat!!!

Use a eye shadow detail brush. Start with a light gold and from the corner of your corner of your eye by the tear duct cover every part of the eyesocket with the exception of the eye lid – do not work out side the eyesocket and don’t lump it on your initial coat. Do both eyes.

Use a eye shadow detail brush. If you only have one wipe it on a clean towel back and forth a few times to remove the color from step one. Next go for a light brown and cover from the tear duct to the center of your eye lid. Do both eyes.

Use a eye shadow detail brush. If you only have one wipe it on a clean towel back and forth a few times to remove the color from step two. Next go for a darker brown, or balck or dark blue and cover from the center of your eyelid to the outside our eye lid. Do both eyes.

Next grab your eyeshadow blending brush and place it on the darkest part of the lid and brush towards the lighter brown you did in step 2. 3-4 strokes should be fine. Then do 2-3 strokes in the opposite direction pulling a bit of the color outside of the eyesocket. Next trace your eyelid crease (this is were the eyelid meets the rest of the lid and blend the gold with these 2 colors.

This is the secret of smokey eyes – BLENDING. Do you like your eyes? What them a little darker? Then repeat the process until you get the desired darkness. If you get too dark, dab a little face powder on your powder brush and brush your eyesockes. This will tone them down. Remember blend, blend, blend.
This is one of the youtube’s I like

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5g1ogannGtU

Couple of points – she starts with the darker colors first – I like to do the lighter colors first for a couple of reasons
1) adhesion – the color will apply to your lid but every successive coat will not apply as well since you are applying powder to powder vs powder to foundation when you start
2) the darker will obscure the lighter. You want to see the detail as you go.

Check out all the video’s and do what you like

Ok now back to eye liner


To apply get up close to the mirror and stabilize your fore arms against the glass. Lets start with you lower eye lid. With the side point of a the pencil, starting form the outside of the eye working in towards your nose you are going to draw a line just above you bottom lash line – this is called the water line. The line should be about a 1/16 inch thick. You don’t want to color right up to your eye ball but a bit off is good. Now this is the starter secret don’t try to cover in one coat. You can always go back and add a little more. More than likely your first attempt will be a bit blotchy don’t worry go back and fill in the parts that are a bit light on a second or third pass. This is kind of where a good pencil pays off. It will color nice where a cheap one will tend to be more blotchy. Still blotchy – no problem. Notice the pencil has a nice rounded cap. Using the cap on the end of the pencil retrace your line this will smooth out the line.

Starting to look sexy?

Ok next is mascara.

Now mascara is the hardest to get off so keep that in mind if you are dodging family. Anytime you are doing makeup you will find that you will still have deposits in the corners of your eyes when you wake up the next day so keep this in mind.

Mascara is a personal item. Don’t share with others and it only lasts for six months. Maybelline and Maxfactor are perfect. If you want to spend extra get Lancome Difincils. I use lancome, but I live 20% of my life as a girl.

Ok fist step one - you have the brush in your hand dab the end on a piece of toilet paper. This will get rid of the huge chunk that will screw up all your work. Starting with the bottom and using the tip gently tap your bottom lashes. Again don’t try and cover in one coat. Redip and dab the mascara brush and do the other eye bottom.

For the tops. . Redip and dab the mascara brush. Using the side of the brush tap under the lashes and pull slightly up and out. Just do the ends to start. Use the tip for the corners. Redip and dab the mascara brush and do the other eye.
Now go back and give your eyes a second coat of mascara.

I am going to cover lips and blush in my next post, but before I do I wanted to discuss how you get the make up off.

OK you will find several different types of makeup removers on the market. They all work, however the stuff made by eleizabeth arden is my favorite. You can get it in your eyes and it will not sting. I really recommend it. Do your eyes with this. Soap and water will cover the rest. Use a wash clothe for extra cleaning. When done use the tonner that you got for foundation to clean your pours out and any additional makeup. Keep in mind you will have residual around your eyes and it will build up in the corners so keep a watchful eye if you are around family or coworkers

Any questions please post them up!!!!
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MAKEUP BASICS - Part 3 - Lips and Blush

Post by CristyCream »

Make up basics – the final part.

OK this one is on blush and lipstick so it should go kind of quick but before I start I wanted to go over a couple of items

Hair – before you begin you should but your hair up in a net. Something like this;

http://www.wowwigs.com/wigcap.html

works perfect. I like the ones by Revlon myself. Also for your wig you will want to keep it on a head when not in use these are must haves:

http://www.wowwigs.com/styrofoamhead.html

You will also what to buy a soft brush to comb out your wig before and after use. Please get a scalpmaster 1000

http://www.cachebeauty.com/scalpmaster.htm

these brushes will not screw up the wig.

For wigs I am a big fan of wigs by Forever Young. These are costume wigs and under $50 each online. It is not even worth getting them cleaned just throw them away when the get dirty and get a new one. They are pre styled and with a little shaking and teasing will fall into shape almost perfectly right out of the bag.

OK lets have fun with lipstick.

99% of you have probably played with lipstick but might not exactly be taken with the results. This goes back to my lecture on tools. If you don’t have the right tools your going to have problems. To put on lipstick correctly you must use a lip brush. When looking for a lip brush please get a retractable since it will save you from getting lipstick on everything.

These are nice

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.j ... goryId=B70

or

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.j ... oryId=3990

now you will more than like ly have some foundation on the edges of your lips. No problem we are going to paint right over it. Gently apply lipstick to the lip brush buy painting the flat portion of the lipstick. This is the part of the lipstick that you would apply to your lips if you were applying it directly.

Starting from the center use the lip brush to paint in the perimeter of your lips. just follow the line of your lip no more no less. The lip brush will give you 1000 times more control and allowing you to perfectly cover your lips. You can do all of your lips with the brush but once you have done the perimeter, you can cheat a bit and apply directly with the lipstick to the bottom and top lips staying away form the perimeter. Purse your lips together and do a little more touch up with the brush.

Want a little sexier lip. No problem excherate the center of the top lip just a bit beyond where it should be (no more than a 1/16 of an inch) and you will have some very sexy lips. As always:

1. You don’t have to cover in one coat

2. And practice makes perfect.

As for brands well the more you spend the better they will feel. I really like Guerlain Rouge G de Guerlain Jewel Lipstick but at $45 a lipstick it’s a bit over the top even for me.

OK last but not least lets turn it up a bit more. Get some glitter like this:

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.j ... goryId=B70

Use your lip brush to brush some on your lips.

Then follow up with a lip gloss like this:

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.j ... goryId=B70

and your lips will say do me where I stand like you have never seen your lips before.

To clean you lip brush, just wipe it on a piece of toilet paper and you can move to a different color or just put it away.

You can also use one of your eye brushes to dip in a bit of the glitter and add a little to your lids for fun. If you put to much on, then a quick swipe with your powder brush and your all set.

OK so some of you are asking hey why not use a lip pencil for out lining. Well yes you can do that, but I never liked the two tone lip look. Use them if you like the look but I have never been a fan of that look and its not currently in main stream fashion at least in the US.


OK now the funest part of getting dolled up - blush.

OK what colors should you get. Simple one dark for that evening look and a good girl blush for that “who me” look

OK first the innocent look. NARS cosmetics is known for one particular item. It basically put them on the map. This is their blush and its name is yes “Orgasm”

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.j ... inate=true

I like it with a shimmer in in it and as you may of guessed that is called “Super Orgasm” they also make a color called “deep throat” that is excellent as well. So much for that good girl impression.

For the bad girl look you want to go a bit darker. Sticking with NARS check out “desire”

Applying the blush

OK you should have brought a blush brush. Taking the flat part of the brush apply some of the color to the brush. Look in the mirror and smile as big as you can. Which will give you big puffy cheaks. Apply the blush to the back 2/3 of the puffy part of the check couple of strokes either side will do it. Relax you face and add a couple more taps. If you put on a bit too much use your powder brush and give your self a couple of strokes up and down your face and it will blend down nicely. Tap your chin one or twice with the blush brush. Tap the end of your nose and then a few taps around your hair line and you are done!!!! This gives you what we call the key hole look.

Add some earrings and your wig and you are ready for action.

As always post up questions and I will do my best to help
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MAKEUP BASICS - Part 4 - Removal

Post by CristyCream »

Forgot to post the "how do you get this all off" thread.

OK most of your current cosmetics are not oil based, so soap and water will remove the bulk of the makeup. A face wash cloth will also do wonders but don't be too assertive.

Now for removing the tricky eye makeup. I find this make up remover to be the best of the best: ELIZABETH ARDEN All Gone Eye and Lip Makeup Remover

http://shop.elizabetharden.com/product/ ... age=family

use this with a qtip and you can get all the eyeliner off quickly and easily. feels very greasy, but it is gentile enough so it wont hurt your eyes.

Finally a good skin toner with a cotton ball or cosmetic pad will clean up the rest.

Now toners range in price dramatically, but for the occasional user the lower cost will be fine. If you have sensitive skin a moisturizer is a good follow up step. Any ulta hydrating cream will work well.

Keep in mind that even though your eyes look clean, your tears will continue to wash away little deposits. these deposits will continue to build up in the corners of your eyes. check them every couple of hours to make sure you got it all. After 12 hours you should be all set.

Hope this helps
Last edited by CristyCream on 01 Jun 2010, 13:43, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: MAKEUP BASICS- a 4 part tutorial

Post by wannabestuck »

Wow these are amazing tips! You should make a YouTube tutorial page if you haven’t done so already
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Re: MAKEUP BASICS- a 4 part tutorial

Post by Captive Cd Michelle »

Very detailed tutorial. This is a must-read for any cd looking to improve their make-up game.
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