Victorian Project
Re: Victorian Project
Wow Aud, this project has really taken off. Looks great in the photos by the way. Awesome
I'm curious, how does it feel on? There are differing views of comfort levels from the time?
I'm curious, how does it feel on? There are differing views of comfort levels from the time?
Re: Victorian Project
Thanks LoKiT.
How does it feel to wear? I've not worn it much, mostly just to check fit and take the photos. Also there is still a weight of material to add so these views may change.
The first thing is that its quite warm. Currently on my body there are three layers; the chemise, corset and corset cover, so I need to turn off the radiator and open the window.
The next thing is that the draws are open so there is a lot of (warm) air flowing around one's nether regions which takes a little getting used to. As mentioned up thread, I think this is by design for convenience and to reduce the need to 'adjust one's dress'.
Sitting down needs to be done with care, lifting the petticoats up and to the side and obviously with the bustle you need to sit on the edge of the chair, with posture forced to be correct by the combination of corset and perching on the edge.
Care needs to be taken when walking. Leaning forward will drop the leading edge of the petticoat and you have a travelling trip hazard.
I can't say I'm not aware of the weight of the skirts and they do swing when turning quickly, but other than that it is surprisingly normal. I guess the Victorians weren't really intending them to be bondage garb. Maybe I need to add an additional petticoat?
How does it feel to wear? I've not worn it much, mostly just to check fit and take the photos. Also there is still a weight of material to add so these views may change.
The first thing is that its quite warm. Currently on my body there are three layers; the chemise, corset and corset cover, so I need to turn off the radiator and open the window.
The next thing is that the draws are open so there is a lot of (warm) air flowing around one's nether regions which takes a little getting used to. As mentioned up thread, I think this is by design for convenience and to reduce the need to 'adjust one's dress'.
Sitting down needs to be done with care, lifting the petticoats up and to the side and obviously with the bustle you need to sit on the edge of the chair, with posture forced to be correct by the combination of corset and perching on the edge.
Care needs to be taken when walking. Leaning forward will drop the leading edge of the petticoat and you have a travelling trip hazard.
I can't say I'm not aware of the weight of the skirts and they do swing when turning quickly, but other than that it is surprisingly normal. I guess the Victorians weren't really intending them to be bondage garb. Maybe I need to add an additional petticoat?
Re: Victorian Project
I have decided to give the Reconstructing History pattern a chance. I hadn't allowed for the fact that seams are included in the pattern so there is a chance that everything will align correctly.
I'm not committing to use good fabric though. After adding an extra inch into the patterns for height, I have now cut out pattern pieces from cotton (left over from the petticoat) leaving generous spare for adjustment.
I can't say my confidence is too high, but the practice should be useful.
I'm not committing to use good fabric though. After adding an extra inch into the patterns for height, I have now cut out pattern pieces from cotton (left over from the petticoat) leaving generous spare for adjustment.
I can't say my confidence is too high, but the practice should be useful.
Re: Victorian Project
Confidence rising
I have tacked together the pieces of half of the bodice and found that the armscye (arm hole) was far too small, I couldn't even get it upto my shoulder. A few snips with The Scissors using the profile from the corset cover and it is looking better. Enough to encourage me to make the other half and test fit it over the corset.
Stay tuned.
I have tacked together the pieces of half of the bodice and found that the armscye (arm hole) was far too small, I couldn't even get it upto my shoulder. A few snips with The Scissors using the profile from the corset cover and it is looking better. Enough to encourage me to make the other half and test fit it over the corset.
Stay tuned.
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 26 Mar 2015, 23:42, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
Not even close
So I completed the bodice yesterday and the results are to say the least disappointing.
DSC00005 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I'm not sure where to start with getting this right or just giving up and finding another pattern, which may still have issues with my 'unusual physique'.
So I completed the bodice yesterday and the results are to say the least disappointing.
DSC00005 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I'm not sure where to start with getting this right or just giving up and finding another pattern, which may still have issues with my 'unusual physique'.
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:16, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
New Plan
OK, I've given up on the Recreating History pattern.
More Googling came up with an alternative approach. A set of instructions on how to draft a Victorian bodice to your measurements. About 50 pages of it! Late Bustle Era Bodice Drafting book* Bearing in mind the success with the corset cover which was created following a similar approach, I'm hopeful of a better result.
*I found the same publication on other sites at considerably higher cost.
OK, I've given up on the Recreating History pattern.
More Googling came up with an alternative approach. A set of instructions on how to draft a Victorian bodice to your measurements. About 50 pages of it! Late Bustle Era Bodice Drafting book* Bearing in mind the success with the corset cover which was created following a similar approach, I'm hopeful of a better result.
*I found the same publication on other sites at considerably higher cost.
Re: Victorian Project
Under Way Again
Warning. This post may contain traces of techy!
I've been distracted.
Whilst looking for patterns I came across someone using SVG images to create patterns. Scalable Vector Graphics are relatively easy to generate with a computer. So my thinking went along the lines: I have a set of descriptive instructions to create my bodice pattern, can I create an application in to which I can enter my measurements and generate a printed pattern? After a couple of thousand lines of Java (which I haven't used before) it seems I can.
So I now have a pattern for the bodice that should look similar to this one:
With the long sleeves and the high collar of the to option, but with the waist and back of the lower one.
The next step is to use it to make a 'muslin' or test piece to find out if it will fit.
Fingers crossed.
Warning. This post may contain traces of techy!
I've been distracted.
Whilst looking for patterns I came across someone using SVG images to create patterns. Scalable Vector Graphics are relatively easy to generate with a computer. So my thinking went along the lines: I have a set of descriptive instructions to create my bodice pattern, can I create an application in to which I can enter my measurements and generate a printed pattern? After a couple of thousand lines of Java (which I haven't used before) it seems I can.
So I now have a pattern for the bodice that should look similar to this one:
With the long sleeves and the high collar of the to option, but with the waist and back of the lower one.
The next step is to use it to make a 'muslin' or test piece to find out if it will fit.
Fingers crossed.
Re: Victorian Project
More progress
Last night I cut out all of the pieces for the test garment or muslin.
Tonight I have pinned together all of the parts that make up the back, with the intention of sewing them together tomorrow. I would have added the front pieces, but ran out of pins. I think this is actually a Good Thing as I would have been tempted to pin the whole thing together and try it on, causing damage to the garment and self inflicted perforations to myself.
DSC00013 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Showing the princess seams and the bustle covering tail.
I've also been doing more research. It seems that corsets aren't the only garments that have boning. It was common in this period for nearly every seam in a bodice to be boned. It also seems that I should have a lining, more doubling the thickness of the cloth rather than the current meaning. Lastly it was in-vogue to have piping around the seams. I'll investigate this, but I'm not sure I really need it!
Last night I cut out all of the pieces for the test garment or muslin.
Tonight I have pinned together all of the parts that make up the back, with the intention of sewing them together tomorrow. I would have added the front pieces, but ran out of pins. I think this is actually a Good Thing as I would have been tempted to pin the whole thing together and try it on, causing damage to the garment and self inflicted perforations to myself.
DSC00013 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Showing the princess seams and the bustle covering tail.
I've also been doing more research. It seems that corsets aren't the only garments that have boning. It was common in this period for nearly every seam in a bodice to be boned. It also seems that I should have a lining, more doubling the thickness of the cloth rather than the current meaning. Lastly it was in-vogue to have piping around the seams. I'll investigate this, but I'm not sure I really need it!
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:18, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
Blowing the Dust Off
Its been a while since I've added anything to this thread, mainly because my sewing mojo had run off.
I had completed the mock-up mentioned above but the fit was as good as the Recreating History pattern. I had a hissy fit and everything got thrown in to the corner of the room!
Eventually I tried again, took more measurements and made new front pieces. Today I completed this task and with a couple of additional darts have something that seems to fit.
(Photos were taken, but they are not good enough to post here...OK, if you insist...
[
DSC00101 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Back view showing princess seams
DSC00094 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Front view)
I have to say dressing up in three layers of cotton plus corset is not fun in 37°C.
I'm now working on the pattern for the sleeves.
Its been a while since I've added anything to this thread, mainly because my sewing mojo had run off.
I had completed the mock-up mentioned above but the fit was as good as the Recreating History pattern. I had a hissy fit and everything got thrown in to the corner of the room!
Eventually I tried again, took more measurements and made new front pieces. Today I completed this task and with a couple of additional darts have something that seems to fit.
(Photos were taken, but they are not good enough to post here...OK, if you insist...
[
DSC00101 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Back view showing princess seams
DSC00094 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Front view)
I have to say dressing up in three layers of cotton plus corset is not fun in 37°C.
I'm now working on the pattern for the sleeves.
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:20, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
More progress.
Attempt 1 at the sleeve pattern was drawn to the instructions given. I looked at the resulting size, sucked my teeth and decided it couldn't possibly be right. So I redrew it based on what I thought the correct dimensions should be. Made it up and found a BIG gap around the shoulder.
Resorting to the original pattern and making it up resulted in a successfully fitting sleeve.
DSC00103a by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Next up: the collar.
Attempt 1 at the sleeve pattern was drawn to the instructions given. I looked at the resulting size, sucked my teeth and decided it couldn't possibly be right. So I redrew it based on what I thought the correct dimensions should be. Made it up and found a BIG gap around the shoulder.
Resorting to the original pattern and making it up resulted in a successfully fitting sleeve.
DSC00103a by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Next up: the collar.
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:22, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
Collared
but no locks!
DSC00108 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I will put interfacing in the final one to make it a bit stiffer and reduce the bulk of the seem at the neck line.
That completes all the part for the bodice mock up. I may make a second sleeve with a high shoulder.
Otherwise I'm working on the shopping list for the final costume. Its getting a tad expensive!
but no locks!
DSC00108 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I will put interfacing in the final one to make it a bit stiffer and reduce the bulk of the seem at the neck line.
That completes all the part for the bodice mock up. I may make a second sleeve with a high shoulder.
Otherwise I'm working on the shopping list for the final costume. Its getting a tad expensive!
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:23, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
Bustling Again
OK, I need peoples opinion here. Which of these pictures shows a better profile for the bustle?
Picture A
DSC00002 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Picture B
DSC00110 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I'll reveal the difference in a couple of days.
OK, I need peoples opinion here. Which of these pictures shows a better profile for the bustle?
Picture A
DSC00002 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
Picture B
DSC00110 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I'll reveal the difference in a couple of days.
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:25, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Victorian Project
My preference is B. It looks fuller and more "resplendent".
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Re: Victorian Project
I second that!teather wrote:My preference is B. It looks fuller and more "resplendent".
Jenny.
Helplessness is a doorway to the innermost reaches of the soul.
If my corset isn't tight, it just isn't right!
Kink is the spice of life!
Come to the Dark Side - we have cookies!
If my corset isn't tight, it just isn't right!
Kink is the spice of life!
Come to the Dark Side - we have cookies!
Re: Victorian Project
Good that confirms my opinion.
The difference is the bustle.
In picture A I have the original bustle pad:
DSC00040 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I wasn't really happy with this so have made this, which I am wearing in picture B
DSC00109 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
It is it perhaps more 'Bound Anna' than historically accurate - most this style would have been made from wire and not had the lowest demi hoop and with the inflexible vertical components, I'm not sure I could sit down in it. Still a worth wile experiment.
The difference is the bustle.
In picture A I have the original bustle pad:
DSC00040 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
I wasn't really happy with this so have made this, which I am wearing in picture B
DSC00109 by Audrey Cooper, on Flickr
It is it perhaps more 'Bound Anna' than historically accurate - most this style would have been made from wire and not had the lowest demi hoop and with the inflexible vertical components, I'm not sure I could sit down in it. Still a worth wile experiment.
Last edited by Audrey_CD on 04 Oct 2019, 14:28, edited 1 time in total.