Easy and small DIY fuckmachine?

[DcorX]

I love a good dildo action, but I'm a bit tired of doing the riding myself.
I'm looking for a DIY fuckmachine that's easy to hide. It can be a manually operated (by hand power or foot controlled) or with a small motor.
The idea is to partially tie myself and work the machine while my body stays in place. Which way doesn't really matter, standing up, sitting, laying down.. Ideal would be a machine that's easily adjusted depending on how you want to use it.
I've been working on some ideas and will post some drawings soon.

Someone here that has some ideas, plans or websites? I've googled a bit, but haven't really found something clear on how to make (with limited resources, here in Belgium, the Home-Depots aren't really like in the US.. only the basics for the left handed are to be found).

[DcorX]

This is more or less what I had in mind. The position and shape of the handle needs some tweeking, but the general idea is there.
What do you guys and girls think?

[MSpike]

I would use an arm with a pivot for the handle as well. The relative distances between the pivots can change the stroke distance, and the handle can be up toward the hands, or down toward the feet.

Side view, vertical "base" will be mounted on larger flat base.

Mar Lingspike

[OrgasmAlley]

I'd suggest you think about a structure that lets your action by hand be up/down instead of front/back. Rigid L shaped handle, with long end extending to your chest and short end toward ground, pivoting at the angle from a frame. Attach your dildo rod at the end of the short side of the L. You move handle end up/down, dildo goes in/out. Pushing and pulling alternately as you've shown is a much more tiring motion.

[DcorX]

I redid the handle design to make it double pleasure. Scnario is laying down, the handle itself is an L shap, short end pointing down, long end pointing to face. The rod and dildo stay in place, but now I have to push the handle away from me.. If I attach a fleshlight on the bottomside of the handle, I can stimulate both my ass and my penis.
You think this might work? I'll try comming monday.

[DcorX]

I made most of the pieces tonight and workings seems ok. Haven't been able to take a picture yet, but I'll try asap.
I now have to figure out a way to connect the dildo to the rod. The one I have is a silicone with suction cup bottom (no balls). I'm thinking of welding a big washer (size of suction cup +1/4" or so) and fixate it on there with a ring over the shaft and some straps..
or... does anyone know if it's possible to safely glue silicone to metal? if it's possible I can make a slip in the bottom of the dildo, put some glue on the rod en push it in, let it fix.. voila

Looking forward to Monday, when I finally can test it out.

[OrgasmAlley]

If you can, take the suction cup off and replicate the shape of its plug. They're usually stuck on with a flange that works just like a vac-u-lock. Failing that, a flat, smooth base of sufficient size for the suction cup, topped with several zipties or Velcro straps will be effective.

[DcorX]

If you can, take the suction cup off and replicate the shape of its plug. They're usually stuck on with a flange that works just like a vac-u-lock. Failing that, a flat, smooth base of sufficient size for the suction cup, topped with several zipties or Velcro straps will be effective.

The suction cup is not really removable, it's part of the dildo itself.
However it has a notch between the suctioncup and the shaft, where I can put a steel ring over it which in turn I can fixate with zipties like you say.. I'll try to work something out tonight and maybe take some footage of the rough version as is now. (If testing is successful I'll finish it a little better)

For the fleshlight I'm thinking about a bracket hoing down from the handle, to which I strap the fleshlight. I'll have to test this to see if it is sturdy enough. I'll be making that part removable.

[Toy Man]

I have built a couple in the past and every one of them went in the dumpster because I started with an existing machine of some sort. I really like this design and I believe could even be motorized very simply and inexpensively. The big thing for me is how clumsy and loud some of them are. Those two issues completely ruin the whole mood for us.

I have a small air actuator I got my hands on a long time ago just for the purpose of building a machine. With the proper regulator I could run that deal on a BB gun cartridge. The problem there is designing the control unit for the solenoid.

I have also looked into the linear servos or actuators they use on robots but they can get pretty costly.

My point, I really like the design of this one and how it is mechanical and therefore lends itself very well to being automated.

[Sir Cumference]

Do your cylinder have 1 or 2 air inlets?
IE, does it need air to move either way, or only air in one direction, then returning by spring force?


If it is double acting, you need a "2 position 5 way solenoid valve" like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Position-5-Wa ... SwvUlWqzeT

The force is decided by the pressure and the cylinder cross section, the speed of the movement is controlled by inserting restrictors/ throttle valves after the valve.
Frequency of the pounding (and direction), is decided by switching on and off the power to the solenoid.
My solution to that would be an Arduino and a MOSFET.

I will recommend using hard plastic tubes with matching push-fit connector. They are very nice to work with and gives a good flexibility for adjustment and experimentation.


Be careful!
Pneumatic cylinders can be surprisingly strong.

Good engineering practice will be to make your setup in a way, that has the "attachment" extended as default, retracting it on activation. In that way, you can insert it to an appropriate depth, and it will go no deeper than wanted, when switched on.

[Toy Man]

Do your cylinder have 1 or 2 air inlets?
IE, does it need air to move either way, or only air in one direction, then returning by spring force?


If it is double acting, you need a "2 position 5 way solenoid valve" like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Position-5-Wa ... SwvUlWqzeT

The force is decided by the pressure and the cylinder cross section, the speed of the movement is controlled by inserting restrictors/ throttle valves after the valve.
Frequency of the pounding (and direction), is decided by switching on and off the power to the solenoid.
My solution to that would be an Arduino and a MOSFET.

I will recommend using hard plastic tubes with matching push-fit connector. They are very nice to work with and gives a good flexibility for adjustment and experimentation.


Be careful!
Pneumatic cylinders can be surprisingly strong.

Good engineering practice will be to make your setup in a way, that has the "attachment" extended as default, retracting it on activation. In that way, you can insert it to an appropriate depth, and it will go no deeper than wanted, when switched on.

Thanks, I have worked with air systems quite a bit. I have built quite a few air driven devices ranging from airsoft stuff to machines for the shop. I have both types of cylinders, one can actually give me 350lbs of force in it's application. The one I would use for this project is much smaller and has a spring for the return. My problem is working out the circuitry to control the solenoid. I have a couple of different solenoids I could use and they are all very nice and capable of doing this. I tried designing something using a 555 timer once or twice but I never got it to work the way I wanted. I could easily do the mechanical and pneumatic stuff if I could get the circuitry worked out.

I would even be willing to build the mechanical part for someone if they could help with the control board.

I believe I have used that exact solenoid on some projects.

[OrgasmAlley]

The control system for what you're describing is very straightforward, and I would point you towards an Arduino driving a SSR to power the solenoid. As I presume you already know, given your spring return cylinder you'll use a needle valve on the exhaust to control the return stroke speed. You will almost certainly need more spring return force.

[Sir Cumference]

As OA said, it is really straight forward!


The simplest solution is to use the most basic of basic Arduino codes, called "blink", that will blink an LED.

Code: Select all

void setup() {
  // initialize digital pin 13 as an output.
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever
void loop() {
  digitalWrite(13, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(1000);              // wait for a second
  digitalWrite(13, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
  delay(1000);              // wait for a second
}

Rather than attaching an LED, you attach one of these and your power supply:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOSFET-Button-I ... Swo0JWPHxw
(Actually, the MOSFETs on these are not logic level input MOSFETs as they really should be when given 5V signals from an arduino. But if you only power bullet vibrators, solenoids and the like, they work just fine. If you want to control larger currents, you should switch the MOSFET to a logic level one)

Now, rather than just blinking an LED, it will power up and power down your solenoid.

By changing the delays, you change the frequency and duration of the strokes.

Using a cheap MOSFET board from Ebay to control stuff

And then you can start playing!
Rather than having the delays in the code, you can input them with a couple of variable resistors, you can attach a vibrator in the same way, and switch it on and off, or you can use pulse width modulation to vary the intensity.

I you haven't use microcontrollers before, then believe me: It will revolutionize your kinky contraptions!


There is a lengthy thread here:
Manual for vibrator control?
Where you can follow the user Amity's journey into kinky programming.

[OrgasmAlley]

All accurate. My preference is an SSR, like this one:

http://www.banggood.com/G3MB-202P-DC-5V ... 80027.html

Excellent isolation, current draw low enough to run reliably directly from an Arduino pin (max pin output 20mA, draw 10mA avg 20mA max), load to 240VAC @ 2A max. It's also reasonably compact, and has a footprint similar to the Pro Mini board, which is my preference or most projects. When required, I can plonk one on the back of the board with a dollop of shoe goo.

The other advantage, which doesn't matter for many applications, is the quick response time. Operate and release time on this part are both 1ms. Not clear about the Keyes module, as it depends on the MOS component.

[Toy Man]

Thanks folks, I mind is reeling with all the ideas.. I even have a couple of noids I could use. I believe I could use one of them to drive the shaft in both directions using air pressure. The amount of air pressure and the duration would control the speed and length. This will take some fine tuning but it will be awesome if I go this route. I have also seen some very easy to emulate mechanical designs.

For the next couple of days I will be prepping for a presentation I am doing Wed morning. It is a Shark Tank style meeting where I am presenting something I have designed. To say I am wound up tight is an understatement !!!!!