Door Lock Solenoid

[freddylocks]

Hi Everyone

For those in the UK.... I came across these today:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2-wire-door-lock-motor-yd79l

They are £2.99 currently, i am sure there are many uses.

Cheers
Freddy

[Sir Cumference]

I have one of those.

It isn't a solenoid, it is a small geared motor.

The stroke length is close to 25mm and it is surprisingly strong. It is fine for pulling a pin, a latch or for pushing something.
4,5 V will actuate it.

It will rebound a bit, and that should be taken into account.
In one polarity it will push, in the other it pulls.

You could build a nice hamster fucking machine with it.

[freddylocks]

Sir Cumference, why am I not surprised that you have one already!

My thoughts were on the idea of pulling/pushing latches.

Re the hamster fucker, that heads too far in the direction of gerbilectomy's and Freddie Starr!

Cheers
Freddy

[bound_jenny]

why am I not surprised that you have one already!

You'd find a lot of surprises while rummaging through Sir C's storage bins.

You could build a nice hamster fucking machine with it.

Why am I not surprised that Sir C's hamster fetish is coming up again?

There must be a lot of happy hamsters at his place...

Jenny.

[ponylady]

Sir Cumference, why am I not surprised that you have one already!

sir c has already a hamster fucking machine ?

[Sir Cumference]

Hamsters are insatiable beasts!

[Sir Cumference]

Practically, anything released by one of these actuators, should have some kind of spring loading, gravity assist or similar.

Once the voltage is no longer applied, it will rebound a bit, and that could lock the mechanism again.

Furthermore, when no power is applied, the arm can be moved with little effort.


But it is really good at what it is designed for: To give a short push/pull when supplied with power.

[bound_jenny]

I started giggling like a schoolgirl when I got in my car yesterday... I hit the unlock button on my remote, and the little pin in the door came up...

To witness how perverted I am (or how you guys have perverted me - if such is possible - I pictured a hamster sitting over the door look pin, with a crazed look on its face...

Lock... unlock... giggle... Lock... unlock... giggle... Lock... unlock... giggle...

Mommy, who is that crazy lady?

Jenny.

[Blacky]

...
I pictured a hamster sitting over the door look pin, with a crazed look on its face...

Lock... unlock... giggle... Lock... unlock... giggle... Lock... unlock... giggle...

Jenny.

Damn. Won't get rid of that picture for weeks.

[OrgasmAlley]

FYI, these door lock actuators -- of which I've used many for a non-kink application -- will not hold against spring force for more than a minute or two without burning out. A normal application will either be powered in both directions (power = extend, reverse power = retract) OR powered momentarily in one direction with spring force holding in the other, which was the default for those I used. The motor will burn out if kept powered.

[bound_jenny]

Damn. Won't get rid of that picture for weeks.

Glad to be of service!

Note to self: MUST get stuffed hamster to put on my car's door lock pins. I may need to do a little sewing sleight-of-hand to make the critter look properly stimulated.

Jenny.

[Sir Cumference]

FYI, these door lock actuators -- of which I've used many for a non-kink application -- will not hold against spring force for more than a minute or two without burning out. A normal application will either be powered in both directions (power = extend, reverse power = retract) OR powered momentarily in one direction with spring force holding in the other, which was the default for those I used. The motor will burn out if kept powered.

Exactly!

I have not measured it with an ammeter, but I guess that the motor simply reaches a physical stop, and is held there with the power on. That means converting a lot of electricity to heat.

If set up to pull a pin, it will stay in place by itself, then move when powered shortly.
(But whatever the pin released, should move out of the way, or it could be caught in the rebounding pin)


Have you seen the releases used in model gliders? This could be used instead of a servo to actuate it.
http://www.sloughrc.com/default.asp?WPG ... mid=723470


For dropping things, two eye-bolts and a pin would suffice.

[Blacky]

Glad to be of service!

Thank you ever so much!


By the way, Jenny, have you ever had access to this car?

[bound_jenny]

By the way, Jenny, have you ever had access to this car?

No!

Sir C, are you sure none of your hamsters is missing?

Jenny.

[OrgasmAlley]

I have not measured it with an ammeter, but I guess that the motor simply reaches a physical stop, and is held there with the power on. That means converting a lot of electricity to heat.

In normal application without the spring, one powers the unit briefly as -/+ and it extends to its limit. It natively remains there. When desired, you power it briefly +/- and it retracts to its limit. That assumes "briefly" is not so brief that it's not enough time to move the inch or so of throw.

With the spring, it is kept extended by spring force. While powered +/-, it will pull and remain retracted to its limit. When power is removed, the spring will return it to the extended position. However, it is not designed to remain powered indefinitely... my guess it they're good for about 2 minutes, so there's no way to set this up as a positive fail release (release when power fails).

If set up to pull a pin, it will stay in place by itself, then move when powered shortly.
(But whatever the pin released, should move out of the way, or it could be caught in the rebounding pin)

Have you seen the releases used in model gliders? This could be used instead of a servo to actuate it.
http://www.sloughrc.com/default.asp?WPG ... mid=723470

For dropping things, two eye-bolts and a pin would suffice.

My application previously... I owned an RC offroad racing track, and for a couple of years we had a computer-controlled gate that would drop the cars in a race individually. Each car sat on its own platform held over the steep ramp face, retained in the up position by a hook riding on a bearing attached to an arm. When the door actuator pulled back the arm, the hook would release, letting the platform fall and dropping the car down the ramp. Although the race car might weight 12 pounds and was hung out from the platform's pivot by perhaps a foot, the actuator was strong enough to release every time it was powered. There were 12 of them, one for each car, and they stayed out in the weather. They're surprisingly durable. However, we were powering a relay bank straight from a parallel port, which doesn't provide much power. That led to the selection of light duty reed relays, and they were barely up to the power pulled by the actuator. As a result, every so often a relay would fuse closed... and every time, even if caught immediately, that would be enough to burn up the actuator attached to it.

Your pin release is a good approach... just not for a positive fail release, of course. It's a good way to make something happen (for instance, release a weight that tensions a rope ratchet), or as a release that's well-backed up by other releases. You'd need to avoid a circumstance where load on the pin could cause it to bind against the moderate force of the actuator.