An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Ideas and instructions how you can make your own bondage toys.
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bound_jenny
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by bound_jenny »

Sir Cumference wrote:tipping over a bucket of ... goat's urine along the way.
:shock: It's amazing what you have lying about the Castle...

I suppose your herd of incontinent goats helps a lot there. :mrgreen:

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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

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Sir Cumference wrote:A door electromagnet connected to daisy chained timers would be the safest option I think.
Neat idea,
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by natq »

Thank you Sir for the detailed information!

I have found using a jigsaw on anything thicker (say 2x4) to be an absolute pain in the ass. (not a good pain).
I think I have a large holesaw somewhere, maybe. I know I have few for concrete. I have a bad habit of buying new cheap tools and supplies as I miss-place the old ones for long enough.

I was thinking about using a solenoid for the emergency release, but making it fail open instead of fail closed would involve far more moving parts than I would prefer.
But electromagnets are really cool, I just wish they ware cheaper. I guess I could rig up something with the small electromagnet I have, maybe some latch secured down with it.
I'll have to find more door electromagnets.
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by Annabel »

I like the idea of stocks with a mag lock. You wouldn't need to go crazy with the mag lock strength. Do you think a 180kg holding force should be enough?
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

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Annabel wrote:I like the idea of stocks with a mag lock. You wouldn't need to go crazy with the mag lock strength. Do you think a 180kg holding force should be enough?
I would think if you could not lift 180kg which I guess would roughly be the weight of two average sized people then you wouldn't be able to pull a mag lock rated at 180kg apart. But if you are supergirl type, then you might need something stronger. but I think you should be ok with 180kg.

Not that I'm saying your not a supergirl, I'm sure you are. :)
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by Annabel »

I was thinking of the position your body would be in. To exact the leverage needed to prise a 180kg mag lock apart you'd have to be properly positioned to exert that amount of force upon it to pop it open. If you're locked into it then I imagine you'd not be able to get to apply the force needed where you'd need to.

The drawback to this would be the weak point to where the power is delivered to the stocks. I imagine you could just hop away until the power was yanked out. You'd have to secure the stocks to something. I'm working on a design for some mag lock operated stocks. Using a 180kg holding force mag lock powered by 12 volts 360ma supply. It will be likely mains powered but if I can power this using a battery I could incorporate it into the stock housing.

I've just made pencil drawings at the moment on how to mount the mag lock and having a positional holding pin to prevent the mag lock being able to slide at all. I'll put up the design once I've fleshed it out a bit more.

Not sure if I can get this battery power though nor how long it would keep it powered. Not to familiar with that kind of stuff. Waiting for the battery to flatten before release does sound kinda fun though but going from that Duracell bunny advert I'd be in them till doomsday :)

A
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

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Annabel wrote:The drawback to this would be the weak point to where the power is delivered to the stocks. I imagine you could just hop away until the power was yanked out.
I think being able to pull the cable out is a bit of a double edged sword, It might make a good safety escape route, but it might also be dangerous. You might not pull the wires clear of the connection and this could cause a short and a fire or a shock. Even if you tied pulling the plug out the socket by pulling on the cable it might only pull the wires from the plugs connections. To prevent that you could fix the cable fast in the stocks with a cable clamp like you see in a UK plug. At the plug end you could have two hooks mounted somewhere on the wall or a solid object and then wrap the cable around these hooks, only once, giving a secure fixing, if you want to be double sure its secure use cable ties, zip ties, to hold it in place. This would stop the cables being pulled out but you have to have some form of safety escape somewhere.
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Annabel
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by Annabel »

Good point on the wires could short. The use of a RCD may be advisable for an extra layer of safety.
http://www.tfc-group.co.uk/RCDA1.jpg
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by lj »

Annabel wrote:
The drawback to this would be the weak point to where the power is delivered to the stocks. I imagine you could just hop away until the power was yanked out. You'd have to secure the stocks to something. I'm working on a design for some mag lock operated stocks. Using a 180kg holding force mag lock powered by 12 volts 360ma supply. It will be likely mains powered but if I can power this using a battery I could incorporate it into the stock housing.


Not sure if I can get this battery power though nor how long it would keep it powered. Not to familiar with that kind of stuff. Waiting for the battery to flatten before release does sound kinda fun though but going from that Duracell bunny advert I'd be in them till doomsday :)
there's no problem getting a suitable battery. Best bet is a 12volt gel cell, you can get these in capacities from about 1Amp-Hour to 100AH plus ! and you can use a cheap car battery charger provided it is suitable for gel cells (they have different charging requirements to the usual car battery with open cells)

You can also use any of the rechargeable cells, NiCad or preferably NiMH (nickel metal hydride) these come in a variety of sizes and capacities.

Another point - you'll find the maglock will be very effective on a lower voltage, not 100% but you could use 9volt batteries.

A drain of 360mA will mean for every 1AH you'll have an effective lock for about 3 hours.

There are plenty of timers that run on 12 volts or less, so you could build the whole thing into a box on the stocks, with an "arming" pushbutton, the release being when the timer operates or the battery runs flat. Make sure the timer will always release the lock if the power supply fails - use the "Normally Off" contacts, which only close when the timer is powered and during the timer period.

Just an idea, but if you used an ice cylinder as the main hinge (if your design uses one) then you would have a guaranteed secondary release. The other way would be to have a holder for your mobile phone fixed to keep it within fingertip reach so you could phone for help if there was an emergency.
be a switch, double the fun :-)
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

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[quote="lj"Just an idea, but if you used an ice cylinder as the main hinge (if your design uses one) then you would have a guaranteed secondary release.[/quote]

I've been thinking about how to have an ice lock method on stocks and was getting no where fast. I was think along the line of having a locking mechanism such a to a gate release, were you pull back a lever and the gate opens. I thought the lever could be opened with your mouth or head pushing on it but it would be prevented from opening by wedging it closed with ice that then melts and allows you to push the lever and release. But it seems I was over thinking it and at the wrong end.

typical of me always at the wrong end.
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by lj »

I can't take full credit for the idea of using an ice cylinder - it's modified from a release used by a young lady who had a website describing her self-bondage exploits. In her case, the ice cylinder was part of a set of ankle stocks used to secure her inside a narrow chamber made from concrete blocks and paving slabs! She crawled in over the lower half of the stocks, the lower section secured to the blocks, the upper pivoted on the ice cylinder but self-latching at the other end when a string was pulled, dropping the upper section onto her ankles. When the ice melted, the upper section was released as the latch was flexible.

Then one day, she stopped posting and was never heard of again. There is a horrible possibility that her ever more complex and serious bondage finally got the better of her. A salutory warning. But if anyone knows if the originator of "www.andreabound.com" is still alive, I for one would be very pleased.
be a switch, double the fun :-)
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by Annabel »

As mentioned my understanding of batteries isn't too great. For a 12v 360 ma mag lock, could I use a battery that delivers 12v but more than the listed milliamps. For example it says 360ma but could I use a 12 v battery with 2300ma and the lock would only draw 360ma or is that not the way it works?
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

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Annabel wrote:As mentioned my understanding of batteries isn't too great. For a 12v 360 ma mag lock, could I use a battery that delivers 12v but more than the listed milliamps. For example it says 360ma but could I use a 12 v battery with 2300ma and the lock would only draw 360ma or is that not the way it works?
If you are trying to work out how long a battery will last for a certain circuit it is not so easy. To calculate it, as far as I remember, you need to use an equation called the Peukerts formula you also need to know the amp-hours Ah rating of your battery, the battery voltage and the amount of power (watts) being drawn by your circuit.

Then you divide your circuits power load measured in watts by your battery voltage and that will give you the value of the current in amps that your circuit will draw from your battery.
Then you need to know the Peukerts number for your battery. You may find these for commonly used batteries on the internet.
Now with your current load taken to the power of the Peukerts number divide your battery Ah rating by this.
This will now give you the period of time in hours that the battery will last.

OR

You could go here and
http://www.csgnetwork.com/batterylifecalc.html
and providing you know your battery capacity in Ah, the discharge Rate (the amount of current in Amps the circuit draws) and the Peukerts Number of your battery it will work it out for you.

I will now go lay down in a darkened room for several weeks.
Last edited by ponylady on 25 May 2014, 01:23, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: added missing quote-bracket
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by PiJoy »

Annabel wrote:As mentioned my understanding of batteries isn't too great. For a 12v 360 ma mag lock, could I use a battery that delivers 12v but more than the listed milliamps. For example it says 360ma but could I use a 12 v battery with 2300ma and the lock would only draw 360ma or is that not the way it works?
Annabel,
I think you're confusing two things:

1. current, measured in A for amperes or mA for milliAmperes (1/1000 of an ampere)

2. battery capacity, measured in units of current times time, measured in Ampere hours (Ah) or milliAmpere hours (mAh)

There's another important property of batteries, which is their (maximum) rated discharge rate, measured in Amperes or milliAmperes.

DO NOT exceed a battery's rated discharge rate! Doing so can cause BAD things, like leakage of caustic/toxic chemicals and/or fire!

Your mag lock, according to it's spec should draw 360 mA (or 0.36 Amps) from an ideal voltage source of 12 volts. This means, via Ohm's law that the resistance of your mag-lock's coil is 12/0.36 = about 36 Ohms. (Google Ohms law if that's not clear enough.) So long as your (12 volt) battery has a rated discharge current greater or equal to 360 mA, that battery can actuate the mag-lock. Now (assuming your battery's rated discharge rate is above 360 mA), if your battery has a *capacity* of two Ampere hours (for example), then it should be able to operate your mag-lock for *roughly* 2/0.36 = approximately 6 hours. I say roughly, because real (as opposed to ideal) batteries delivered voltage change as they charge or discharge, and that variation will, via Ohms law, change the current through the coil. There are a bunch of other factors (for example temperature), so battery lifetime (per charge) at a given current is only an *approximation* of reality.

If you don't already have one, I suggest you get a basic DMM (digital multi-meter) that can measure currents well in excess of your 360 mA. Note that some DMMs can only measure up to 200 mA, full scale. Those meters won't help you much, but one that can measure an Amp or two will let you measure what's going on in your circuits.

Hope this helps,
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Re: An afternoon in the workshop: Stocks

Post by Annabel »

Thanks for all the information regarding the batteries. Had to digest this.

So if I understand this correctly. I want to power a maglock that uses Voltage 12/24v DC 360/180 Current mA

The battery I'm looking at is http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/info_26.html

3300mAh / 360ma would give just over 9 hours of battery time in an ideal world but after taking away factors such as temperature etc it could decrease by as much as 30% give just over 6 hours battery time.

Now this battery is Measured at 660mA discharge which is well above the 360mA requirements so the battery rated discharge rate should not be exceeded.

Am I understanding this correctly?
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