Help with DIY sex machine

Ideas and instructions how you can make your own bondage toys.
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Sir Cumference
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Re: Help with DIY sex machine

Post by Sir Cumference »

You would not happen to have a picture?
~ Leatherworking, blacksmithing , woodworking and programming are the most pervertable skills you can learn! ~
sky190176
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Re: Help with DIY sex machine

Post by sky190176 »

jack_sub wrote:Hello everyone,

I had the machine built and it works well. I would certainly not go for a motor with less than 0.5hp since you would likely lose the low speed torque which is good to start with and fun play around with.

I do need to work on acoustics a little. I would recommend going for solid stainless steel rods to lower the high frequency noise when running in linear bearings which gets produced from the hollow steel rods I'm using.

I have to say that a machine is loads of fun, and quite challenging in most aspects. If you have a good £150 to give this a real go I would totally recommend it.

Sorry I haven't followed any sooner, I will try and stay in touch to help out others to make their machines.

can you suggest parts ? what motor ?
thatthat21
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Re: Help with DIY sex machine

Post by thatthat21 »

smelt wrote:I like old cars.... so.... Hook that bad boy up to a 427 chevy, direct drive. Add a roots-style blower, for looks, and sound... Put a bolt thru one spot in the flywheel and..... No, that would probably kill you. I just had to post that.
Might be a fun way to scare the sh*t out of some one tho.... Lock them down wheel that thing and fire it up and be like sit still and relax, or it might really hurt.....
jack_sub
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Re: Help with DIY sex machine

Post by jack_sub »

For the motor you want to go for something with 0.5hp or greater to be able to do pretty much anything with it (except for some extremely large play). To get a rough idea of horsepower you can use this to convert from wattage to HP:

http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/conversions/power.php

For the flywheel you can simply bolt down steel plate with drilled holes to the motors' drive pin, you can use the rest of the drilled holes to vary the stroke length.

Then I would recommend getting two stainless steel rods (around 50cm) for the rest of the drive train and the thrusting rod. You'll want to get three "end bearings" which are essentially circular bearings with a male or female bolt connection. You'll want to use a Die kit to thread the end of the rods and then connect the "end bearings" (with female connections) to both sides of one rod which will connect to the flywheel, and one to the other rod (the thrusting rod) which will connect to the flywheel rod. This means that you have a very fluid connection between all the moving parts.

Then you'll want to secure the thrusting rod between two small linear bearings, or one long linear bearing. And then you'll need to connect whatever you want to the free end of the thrusting rod. I've not found a really good way to cheaply do this so I can't really recommend anything for that yet. But I will if I conjure something up.

Hopefully that gives you a good place to start, let me know if there is anything your getting stuck on that the rest of thee thread doesn't cover.
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AssTechWarrior
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Re: Help with DIY sex machine

Post by AssTechWarrior »

I've built several different thrusting type sex machines. Here are my observations, recommendations and some cautions.

Some power sources I have used for the thrusting action include Motors, pneumatics ( air pressure ), hydraulics ( water pressure ) and gravity.

For motors, both DC and AC low voltage and standard industrial voltages will all work, it depends on your controller availability and what surplus stuff you can find. By far the best although likely the most expensive was an industrial 90v DC right angle drive gear reduction 1/2 HP motor with industrial speed controller with speed integrated feedback. All Baldor, paid about $30 for both parts. Heavy and the controller was large. Strong and stable from slow up to about 250 RPM which is way too fast to sustain. The DC controller flared more in speed as load changed and had some current limiting but it was hard to adjust to allow strong startup but still be able to get it to stop by grabbing the dildo.

Next best was a standard 3 phase AC motor with a VFD controller with a v-belt pulley on the end. Since it is VFD it has high torque at low but controlled speed. Also industrial surplus, cheap too. Heavy motor mid sized control. Stronger at low speeds but it required adding pillow blocks, a shaft and pullies to the design. The pulley could be adjusted to allow for some slip as a safety and the VFD had some speed ramp control and peak torque limits that can be adjusted.

Both motor machines used the same rotor and thrust guide design. I used an aluminum disk, about 1.5" thick and 16" dia on a shaft for the flywheel and 'crank' shaft. Slotted it and had a slider to allow length adjustment but only when stopped. From 3" min stroke to an absurd 14" max. I had welded up a motor support that included a linear bearing with height and angle adjustability connecting the linear slider to the pivot on the disk. Worked very well, and was very quiet until the speeds got quite high.

Pneumatics was my first go at it as the actuator part was the smallest and most versatile. Stroke distance was not adjustable except by changing cylinders or adding a restrictor to the shaft. Spring return single acting cylinders do not have sufficient force to retract reliabley. Dual acting cylinders, I used ones made by Bimba, have slightly less retract force. Equal pressure in both sides will extend the cylinder. Force depends on pressure in the cylinder, speed is wildly variable and pressure is difficult to control.

To control one cylinder you need to be able to put air into each side. Hold it there or release it Manifolded solenoids with 2 control lines per end work, you will need a microcontroller that can drive them.

I used pulsed signals to allow slower filling instead of just bang bang full on/off. Playing with holding pressure in the retract side while holding the extend side inlet open allows for jittery slow insertions or very fast and hard. Using small vent orifices on retract lets the insert be moderated. Depth is wildly affected by resistance / lube. Using a home shop air compressor it will use more air than you expect and the air pulsing makes a lot of noise.

Hydraulics uses the same control strategy but city water as a pressure source. Much quieter but you need to plumb the vent outlets or everything gets soaked.

Use GFCI outlets that have been checked if you are plugging anything into the wall. Ground your metal chassis!

Examples of the parts used my me to build these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400W-AC-110V-Kn ... 1531314350
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayton-90v-DC-g ... 2788602502
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INPUT-1HP-110V- ... 2527280774

This one is a bit small diameter but at 40 PSI should have sufficient force and has a 200mm stroke ( ~8" ) http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAL-25-x-200-25 ... SwepZXQ8d4
Better piston area and 300mm stroke:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAL-32mm-x-300m ... SwjMJXBcty

Water solenoids: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Normally-Cl ... 1847498876
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