Brainstorming: Icelock / snap-lock combo

[occorics]

i often have the problem, that the necessity to close and open the last lock limits the amount of restriction of the hands.
Ideally, there would be something that snaps in like the fasteners on nylon belts, but releases automatically after some time (a.k.a. ice-lock).
Maybe it's possible to design a combo of both and 3d-print it...

this is what i came up with so far:

- black: the two parts of the ice-lock like in the standard one, with the ice (blue) locking them together
- gray: some kind of locking pin with a plate that can be mounted to cuffs or integrated into 3d-printed parts... might be similar to a segufix pin or the belt snap-locks, whatever works.

the problem i'm now facing is how to design the other part of the snap-in mechanism. It should be integrated into the ice-lock parts and ideally, it should only be possible to unlock the pin, when the ice-lock is open.

Anyone has an idea?

[thatthat21]

i often have the problem, that the necessity to close and open the last lock limits the amount of restriction of the hands.
Ideally, there would be something that snaps in like the fasteners on nylon belts, but releases automatically after some time (a.k.a. ice-lock).
Maybe it's possible to design a combo of both and 3d-print it...

this is what i came up with so far:

icelock.gif

- black: the two parts of the ice-lock like in the standard one, with the ice (blue) locking them together
- gray: some kind of locking pin with a plate that can be mounted to cuffs or integrated into 3d-printed parts... might be similar to a segufix pin or the belt snap-locks, whatever works.

the problem i'm now facing is how to design the other part of the snap-in mechanism. It should be integrated into the ice-lock parts and ideally, it should only be possible to unlock the pin, when the ice-lock is open.

Anyone has an idea?

Really for the Gray part you just need something that you can't easily do with out the right tool. So you could use something like the plastic snap latches on dog colors, and have the receiving end in side or part of the Black part. Then with two small holes on both side you could feed a paper clip or some kind of long metal pick from both side at the same time to press the clips in to remove the latch from the Black/Ice lock part. Something like the image below, I also think that this could just be printed into the Ice Lock side as well to make it one part.

[Keyless]

Would something like this be any use. I think you can push the bar in with the device locked, but you need the key to get it out. I had one around somewhere, but I can't find it at present, so I can't check.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sliding-Glas ... 0005.m1851

You will need some way of attaching to the round bit. I suppose a hose clip might do it but something more elegant might be better.

[occorics]

Thank you, thatthat21 and Keyless!
I think a combination of both might work well. Like some kind of ratchet like on a handcuff with a hole to push in a pin for release.
Now I need to get a bit more familiar with CAD...

[Keyless]

I'm glad I might have helped, but I don't think I really understand the problem. If the ice lock, or whatever you are trying to connect to is not fixed, you will still have to hold both parts to connect them, very similar to a padlock. I have a couple of other points.

To use a ruck sack clip, you might be able to fix one part of the clip to the rod in the middle of your ice lock then fit a collar to the body of the ice lock, to cover the clip so you can't get at the release buttons. When the ice lock releases, the clip will come out of the collar and you can undo it. See below. I hope you don't mind me modifying your diagram.

If you can get hold of the ice lock, you can use your body heat to make it release quicker.

Some people who want to reduce freedom seem to use something like a rope ratchet to tighten their bonds after they are locked in (I guess care required not to make it too tight - cutting off circulation, damaging nerves etc). Would that be easier?

I find that 3D printing is not that strong, especially at right angles to the layers.

[occorics]

I'm glad I might have helped, but I don't think I really understand the problem...

my idea is to build something like rigid-cuffs that I only have to click together after i have locked the wrists in or similar things where i can't use my fingers for the final lock.

I have now come up with this:

So like a normal ice-lock, but at the ends there are slots where a segufix cap can be inserted. Then a rod is pushed into the off-axis hole. It goes through the whole lock and prevents the segufix-caps from being removed. The rod itself can only be removed when the ice-lock is open.
Now you put the parts together and freeze it.
The segufix pins will be attached to a set of cuffs or whatever and can simply be pushed into the locks without the help of fingers. Once the lock opens, the rod can be removed and the lock slid out to the side.

I hope to find some time the next days to print a simple version and test it...

[Keyless]

Thanks, I understand now. Great idea. I hope it works well. Let us know how it goes.

[Jadit]

About those images, you will not want any sharp edges at the contact surfaces. Should round the holes, so vertical slice through would look like a sine-wave on both sides. It should also greatly strengthen the structure.

[Sergio]

About those images, you will not want any sharp edges at the contact surfaces. Should round the holes, so vertical slice through would look like a sine-wave on both sides. It should also greatly strengthen the structure.

That looks like OpenSCAD so reduce the size by, say 0.5mm and use the minkowski() to add a 0.5mm radius sphere to the whole object (takes some processing time) but will give you an object where every external edge has a 0.5mm radius.

The other way is to either shotblast the finished item with very fine grit, or if you're using ABS use acetone vapour to smooth the finish.

I can't help thinking that those grooves will need to be a lot bigger to hold ice frozen for any length of time. If you slice it with a honeycomb fill that will effectively add insulation.

[occorics]

About those images, you will not want any sharp edges at the contact surfaces. Should round the holes, so vertical slice through would look like a sine-wave on both sides. It should also greatly strengthen the structure.

That looks like OpenSCAD so reduce the size by, say 0.5mm and use the minkowski() to add a 0.5mm radius sphere to the whole object (takes some processing time) but will give you an object where every external edge has a 0.5mm radius.

The other way is to either shotblast the finished item with very fine grit, or if you're using ABS use acetone vapour to smooth the finish.

I can't help thinking that those grooves will need to be a lot bigger to hold ice frozen for any length of time. If you slice it with a honeycomb fill that will effectively add insulation.

Yes, it's OpenSCAD... i will have a look at the minkowski function, thank you!
I was going to try honeycomb infill at 50% or so, will be interesting to see how different parameters (e.g. length or diameter of the whole thing) affect the time.
Regarding the grooves... i actually have an icelock with very little room between the inner and outer cylinder and the grooves are less than 1 mm big. It's surprisingly strong and needs only very little water. But that's also something i want to experiment with. I'm aiming for around 2hrs release time with the lock as small as possible.

[pavtron]

I have found that this lasts 2ish hours.

I'd look at doing a ball and pin in the body of the lock. Kind of like an air chuck. Or something like one of these.

Granted both of those need an action to make the connection. But something along those lines.